box design for 1991 honda civic

I was hoping someone head a box design for a 1991 Honda Civic hatchback with about 8 cubic feet of airspace. I am going to run four 12 Hifonics hfi12d4's. I'm pretty sure it would take up the entire trunk. It's just hard with the shock supports and all the curves to get all of the measurements in there....so I was hoping that someone has been there done that already. Thanks! Proud To B Loud

I may have posted this under the wrong forum room as I did not get any response before. I am new to this site. I need to know about the best possible way to get the most cubic feet out of my hatch area for four 12 hifonics hfi12d4's. I don't really wanna go with fiberglass...maybe isobaric? I would really appreciate any input....Thanks!Proud To B Loud

We hear ya, we just don't know what to possibly tell you other than to get busy with the tape measure and keep your pencil sharpened while you draw out the plans.Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

unless you actually want to do the build IN your car. not recommended because you will have to destroy it if you ever want to take it out

Wall it :) you can get the space walled . BTW this is a hatchback 4th gen we are talking about. not a 5th generation coupe or sedan.

6thaveme wrote: Even if you take out the back seat and attempt to wall of the civic a 8 cubic foot box is not going to fit threw doors and into the back of the car.No matter what the demintions of the box are it isnt possible.I had to take my front seat out and wrestle my 4 cubic foot box into the car from the passenger side door and then i had to get my box into the trunk from inside of my car witch was realy hard.....My whole trunk is the box now their isnt any room for even an extra cubic foot...So when i say it isnt possible it isnt possible trust me i tried to get some of my freinds boxes in there for the fun of it and they wouldent fit....building a box inside of that car isnt possible you have no room to work my freind...

you make a good point, but what J.Reed means is a WALL in the traditional sense that is built inside the vehicle from top to bottom and is meant to be permanent. anything else is just a big box

6thaveme wrote: To me atleast that seems very hard to do with that car..I have seen a few on youtube walled off but most local shops dont even have the experiance to do a procedure like that and most inexperianced box builders wont even come close to desighning that to fit rite and better yet sound good..

hahaha, the words "wall" and "sound good" should never be in the same sentence together. its really not that hard to build a true wall, it just takes time and patience to do it right. if you go to a shop, yes, they will tax you plenty. it would be hard to just design one on paper and then expect it to fit right. i would mock it up with wooden dowels and hot glue so you can get the angles right, but after you get your measurements: step 1: build the floor. cut the wood to fit the shape of the floor in the car and anchor it with BIG bolts. i can't stress this enough. this is also for sound as well as safety because any movement of the box is lost output. step 2: build the side walls. this is tricky because of space so you need to build the side walls with a 4 inch lip spaced away from each edge (top, bottom, front, and back edge) the same distance as the thickness of the wood you used for the floor and will use for the top. this will give you something to screw the top and bottom to without having to the sides to put screws (not possible because of space). also use a generous amount of liquid nails and brace every wall bigger than 24x24. once you do this you can slide the top on and screw it down from the inside. step 3: build the front baffle. depending on how many subs and how big they are, you should layer the front baffle 2-4 layers of 3/4 or 1" MDF. screw them all together with liquid nails in between each layer. its important for the baffle to be layered because this is where all the holes for the subs will be cut so it will naturally be weaker. after thats done, screw it to the box from the front and back through that lip you pre-built into the side walls. after this is done the back is still open so you can do any finishing touches like more bracing and maybe some threaded rods between the sides to keep tension and keep the box from flexing. and also run a bead of liquid nails around all edges to make sure you have a good seal and add strength. last step is to add the back piece. make sure it is braced before you install it. and dont forget to make a hole to run speaker wires through.