2008 ford ranger, galaxy rs, ads-tb

I have a 2008 ranger, it does have pats.  I bought  a key off of ebay for 9 dollars shipped.  When you have the new key the programming is as follows

1) crank with old key(#1)

2) take out key # 1 and crank with other old key(#2)

3) Take out key # 2 and insert new unprogrramed key,  turn to crank, it will take about 3 seconds of the security light flashing and then presto its programemd.

Once you have 3 keys i would go and buy the 556u its the old faithful and will work liek a champ and substantially cheaper than an xk04.  Although the xk04 "should" work no problem after youve wired the relay in as per instructions on page 4.

As for lock/inlock they should be ar your smart module in the pass kick along with door triggers, domelight supervision.  Put your meter on dcv and put your red lead on 12v and your black lead on the colors to trigger the lock/unlock.  Your meter should read 12v when locking or unlocking.  If your rs is not putting out enough current to trigger you factory relays, which is should, you might want to explore the option of adding door lock relays or a 451m if you have the availability to one.  if not wire up your relays as such 

85- lock output from rs

86-12v

30-to fact lock wire

87- ground

same as unlock just use another relay.   Hope this helps good luck.

If you unsuccesfully keep trying to program the xk04 you will lock yourself out of cranking for 20 min.

Ok, I'm trying the idatalink tonight.  I just got an email back from the place I bought my XK04...supposedly it wasn't flashed despite me paying a $10 programming fee.  That conversation went well.

I want to know if its possible that the RS doesn't put out the ign voltage long enough to actually program the bypass?  If this is the case, do I have to do a hotwire just for programming so it can actually hold long enough for the 3 second delay?

As for the locks, again, I'm a newb - but I can't really see a way to run the wires that came with my modules all the way to the passenger-side kick.  Is there no way of tapping off the wires coming under the dash through the door just to pulse along the same line that pulses when I push the button on the door?  I realize that it would be easier to get my factory option of 2-stage locks by going straight from the RKE module (Im assumign thats what you're talking about with the "Smart" module).

I mean, if someone could totally dumb this down for wiring my lock/unlock from module  to connection for my truck specifically - because Im at a total loss.

So far, I'm pretty confident its RS 3-pin connector (Green and Blue wires... Green->Violet/Gray and Blue->Gray / YELLOW)  In my head that should work.  I don't know how to tell, or where to put some sort of arm/disarm, or the actual door sensors themselves if needed.  I can't wrap my brain around it.

Cheers for the help, and sorry for being slow!

Update.

iDatalink worked beautifully first try.

I even hooked up a Fluke 199C to start probing (thanks to Her Majesty - I love that this is "professional development" and I'm using a heated garage/nice tools courtesy of the canadian taxpayer)

There are 2 harnesses ....one is a large blue one that only has wires coming into it with 5 wires (I believe, Im at work now).  2 are +12v const or ign, 2 are the PURPLE / GREY and GRAY / YELLOW, the connection does not work in there.

The second harness is the one described (assumedly) as the drivers kick panel, and ABOVE pin 6 and pin 5 (top row from top left looking from drivers seat) are the two coloured wires mentioned.  Again, the galaxy pulse, while definitely putting out a -500mA will not trigger the door lock or unlock.

Not sure what is wrong with either the galaxy or the harness, but that combination has been tried, metered, tried with a constant supply, and still not working.

Cheers for the reply.  I'm completely lost and will try again on wednesday after work.