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97 accord ex 2 stage door unlock


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chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 14, 2008 at 11:33 PM / IP Logged  
More info to consider:
I'm looking at a Haynes manual for the '90-'93 Accord which also lists the unlock motor as being yellow/red. This shows no separate control, even with keyless entry.
If that's the case for yours as well, you'll be able to connect to yellow/red for priority unlocking. However, you'll have to cut and connect to that wire at some point between the driver's door and the splice with the wire to the other doors. The easiest place to do this would be in the rubber boot going into the driver's door, or between there and the fusebox/junction block where the wires from the driver's door plug in to (if they in fact do this, again I've only worked on later model Accords).
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
smorton 
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Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: December 15, 2008 at 6:24 PM / IP Logged  

Hi!

Thank you for the info. The wire setup you described appears just like mine.  I am not sure what central locking is but this is how the door locks work on my car (stock).....all of the doors either lock or unlock with the exception that unlocking the driver's door, with the key from the outside, does not unlock the other doors. Using the key on the passenger side will unlock all of the doors.

I put the wires back together at the door lock module. Here is a pic of the wires going to the driver's door actuator. The two thicker wires have the same voltages as from the module. It's a little hard to see the colors of the wires, but they are just as you indicated.

97 accord ex 2 stage door unlock - Page 2 -- posted image.

Per your previous posts, are these the connections to the relay?

86 = +12V (White wire at module)

87 = +12V (White wire at module)

85 = alarm (-) trigger (Blue wire from alarm)

87A = Ground

30 =  Yellow/Red (cut at door molex or rubber boot or before fuse box and connect door side to relay)

Also cut the two signal wires at the location shown in the picture (going to the actuator)?

Do I just tape the other end of the cut Yellow/Red wire or does this get connected to something?  

I hope I understood you correctly and I am sorry if I missed anything.

Your help is greatly appreciated!!

Scott

chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 15, 2008 at 7:52 PM / IP Logged  
smorton, you're right on all but two things in your most recent post.
1. 87a will go to the other side of the cut yellow/red wire, not to ground.
2. The signal wires do not need to be cut - I believe the previous poster was under the assumption that your manual lock rod, when moved to the "unlock" position, would then cause the power locks to unlock the other doors. This isn't the case(assuming your car is like other Hondas I've done where manually moving the driver's doorlock will lock, but not unlock, the rest of the doors).
You can and probably should reconnect those signal wires.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
smorton 
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Posted: December 15, 2008 at 8:15 PM / IP Logged  

OK, I think I got it.

86 = +12V (White wire at module)

87 = +12V (White wire at module)

85 = alarm (-) trigger (Blue wire from alarm)

87A = Yellow/Red (cut at door molex and connect car side to relay)

30 =  Yellow/Red (cut at door molex  and connect door side to relay)

And I will not cut any signal wires. I will cut only the Yellow/Red wire at the door molex. I plan on taking the molex apart and cutting the wire "on the inside of the door" part of the molex. Since I already ran the alarm (-) signal wire through the molex, I am now very familar with it's removal (here's my trick: remove the door stay - the piece that goes from the door to the car and keeps the car door from opening any farther. Then the door can swing back far enough to easily get to the molex.)

Tomorrow, I will post back with the results.

Thank you!!

Scott

t&t tech 
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Posted: December 15, 2008 at 8:31 PM / IP Logged  

sorry for the mistake guys, but like i said i've never done priority locking or any type of locking in that particular vehicle as a matter of fact, i'm from the carribean so my honda accords may differ a little to your models, but i think i did pretty good on the advice, for someone who never worked on yor model, don't ya think chris.

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 15, 2008 at 9:09 PM / IP Logged  
t&t tech, you were right on, assuming that your Caribbean Accords are anything like the UK cars with central locking that Howie II always complains about, or like my GTO's nightmare power locks that I've mentioned in several threads.
Though I'm really not sure where you're getting that 87a of the relay should go to ground - this would render the factory lock switching unable to ever operate the driver's doorlock.
Also, tedmond's post was mistaken in saying that the actuators would be ground switched(since the lock switch/key cylinder wires were). U.S. car doorlock actuators are almost universally rest-at-ground systems which switch one wire to 12V when locking/unlocking.
Additionally, if chriswallace187 could make or scan images with a modicum of skill, he wouldn't have to type so dang much and might end up confusing people a bit less.
One last thing to elaborate - please don't think I'm saying anything about anyone personally who's posted a fact wrong. Everyone, myself included, has done it from time to time.
I only start calling people idiots when (like happened a few months ago, Tedmond may remember) they say that I'm a moron and the 12volt should ban me, all because they didn't use enough punctuation to make it clear whether they were asking a question and making a statement(and I asked them which it was).
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My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
tedmond 
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Posted: December 15, 2008 at 11:17 PM / IP Logged  
i remeber something along those lines. its not your fault ppl cant type. but sorry about the misleading information. trying to refresh my memory on these things.
chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 16, 2008 at 4:17 AM / IP Logged  
It's all good ted...I did an '08 Accord a few weeks ago that refreshed my memory that every time I do an Accord with OEM security I ought to be selling my cust. an RS with keyless and using both an XK05 and XK01.
That is, since Honda's engineers have included transponder keys for 10 years and it hasn't occurred to them "Hey, maybe we could have the ignition coupled with a valid transponder code disarm the alarm like every other manufacturer does!"
Also now that I typed this I realize the '08-up Accord uses an XK07 for locks/alarm, not an XK01.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
smorton 
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Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: December 16, 2008 at 5:19 PM / IP Logged  

Hi!

I am back from work and got looking around for that Yellow/Red wire on the inside of the car. I am not really fond of using the Yellow/Red wire at the molex (on the inside of the door), so I started looking around the fuse box and found a Yellow/Red wire with the same voltages as in the door. I also found a +12V wire next to it (Blue). I can not tell for sure if this location will work. I can not completely trace the wire back to the door and want to be sure before I cut this wire. Has anyone used this location for cutting the Yellow/Red wire for priority unlock? I also do not know if the Blue wire I found (+12V) is a constant +12V or not. I would prefer to keep the connections and relay inside the car where they are better protected from the elements.

97 accord ex 2 stage door unlock - Page 2 -- posted image.

.I am also trying to document everything I do here so that it may help others with the same year and make car. Please forgive me if I seem to repeat some information or ask twice.

Thanks!!

Scott

chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 17, 2008 at 12:08 AM / IP Logged  
Scott,
The easiest way to verify would be to unplug that connector and operate the passenger door lock switch. If all locks except the driver's door work, that's the yellow/red you need to cut and wire into.
Also as far as the blue wire goes - I can't think of any reason that that a plug with the wires going to the driver's door would have constant power. They didn't start using door modules on the Accord until the '98 redesign, the power lock switch is negative, and the power windows/mirrors are ignition switched.
I would suggest sticking with that original white wire for your constant power.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
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