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hornet 570t, 2006 ford escape


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chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 31, 2008 at 6:35 PM / IP Logged  
Hmm...which wire are you connected to now for your tach? DEI's tach sensing usually works pretty well with any kind of signal.
The reason for getting 12V from the battery is the low current rating of the constant 12V that supplies the ignition switch. (It's fused at something like 7.5A or 10A on your Escape, not the 40,50 or 60 amps that conventional heavy gauge ignition switches would have.) If you were to add, to the minimal current draw of the factory ignition switch wires, such common things as (+) parking lights or directly driven door locks, it could easily blow that fuse and the car obviously wouldn't start until you replaced it.
You don't necessarily have to run to the battery for 12V though. The fusebox/SJB has high current 12V inputs available, and the ignition switch 12V wire would be usable if you were doing (-) parking lights and (-) lock/unlock. (The control module itself as well as any external relays will draw around 1 amp or less.)
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
terrytcl 
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Posted: December 31, 2008 at 8:59 PM / IP Logged  

chris,

i have it hooked up to a coil wire that's not red.  i think it's green with a black stripe.  there's only 2 wires on the coil, so basically, it's the one that's not the red one.

i went ahead an ran a line to the battery.

still same results so far.  still troubleshooting.

terrytcl 
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Posted: January 01, 2009 at 8:10 PM / IP Logged  

is there anyway that the remote start can run on voltage sense?

i took out the 570t and installed a Valet 562t unit.  still same result.  vehicle shuts down after 10 seconds of running on remote start

chriswallace187 
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Posted: January 01, 2009 at 9:45 PM / IP Logged  

Yes, voltage sense could work. Tach's preferable to me on most cars because it doesn't over/undercrank the starter.

Also, have you tried using a fuel injector? It's kind of weird but I just thought I may have had problems using an ignition coil on a Ford as my tach source during several installs.

C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
terrytcl 
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Posted: January 02, 2009 at 11:15 AM / IP Logged  

chris, i was actually thinking the same thing.

i've been looking for an injector wire to tap to, but can't even see the connectors to it without removing the intake manifold. 

there are 2 main connectors that the injector harness and the coil harness are going to.  i've disconnected both and found the coil wires that go to those connectors.  i can't figure out which ones are the injector wires.  any ideas?  don't want to remove the intake manifold.

aaronrs4 
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Posted: January 02, 2009 at 1:57 PM / IP Logged  
When you use the remote start, does the "THEFT" light on the dash start flashing? If so, re-program your bypass module... It should light up constant. When you did your Tach learning procedure, did the LED light up constant on the remote starter? If not, you dont have an adequate tach signal... Try changing the tach threshold jumper and see if that helps. I thought I did an Escape the other week that I was able to get at the fuel injectors by just taking the big worthless cover off the engine and they were right there. That might not have been an Escape though, this time of year its all a blur... Good luck
Install it like everyone will see EVERY part of it.
terrytcl 
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Posted: January 02, 2009 at 5:36 PM / IP Logged  

guys,

found the tan/black wire for injector #5.

tapped into that wire via solder.  much better tach signal as i can get the remote starter to recognize the signal, however the car still dies after a coule seconds.

i'm using a valet key within the bypass unit.  car starts up fine.  actually, i also tried just putting a key into the ignition cylinder and activating the remote starter.  same results.  i'm not sure what's going on.

i do not believe this car has a factory alarm system.  does the factory alarm disable need to be connected?  i hooked up a - signal wire to the wire within the SJB... (finally got to it, thanks chris)....  with the factory alarm disable line connected, i still get the same result.

terrytcl 
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Posted: January 12, 2009 at 4:34 PM / IP Logged  

ok, got the car running for a couple days running on the RS.

was able to teach the RS unit to run on tach mode.

but, now after a couple days, the RS unit forgot the tach signal and is trying to run on voltage mode again.

any thoughts?

i checked all of the connections for the tach.  they can't be better than they are right now.

terrytcl 
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Posted: January 12, 2009 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged  

want to add -

for those of you guys looking to install a RS on an escape.  do not use a coil wire for tach input.  the injector wire is much better with a much better voltage level.

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