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remote start keeps grinding or shuts off


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pgkool 
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Joined: June 22, 2006
Posted: January 06, 2009 at 12:30 PM / IP Logged  
My starter keeps cranking for a little bit after the engine is started or sometimes shuts off and the starter tries again. I have tried to program my starter with the RPM signal settings. and sometimes I can get it to stay on, but it sounds like something is still grinding for a few seconds after the car is started which doesn't happen with the key start. The grinding could be from something else, it doesnt sound like the crank sound from the key.
I used an oscilloscope to see the tach signal, which was a constant amplitude and just changed frequency by increasing the RPM of the engine. So im pretty sure its giving good info. Its about 7V pk-pk but is not perfectly square.
What am I doing wrong?
KPierson 
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Posted: January 06, 2009 at 1:21 PM / IP Logged  

More info is needed - what year/make/model is your car?  What did you install in it?

You say 7v pk-pk would that be 0-7vdc or -3.5- +3.5vdc?

Kevin Pierson
pgkool 
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Posted: January 07, 2009 at 9:08 AM / IP Logged  
Sorry, its a 2000 toyota camry
Remote start is Avital 4001
7v pk-pk is -3.5 - +3.5
When i remote start, the car starts and cranks and it seems fine, but after the crank stops going, i hear a clicking/grinding sound for a few sec and then it dissapears.
Ocasionally after the car is started, the remote start will also shut the car off and then try again. It thinks i guess the car didnt start right, but its running...
I have been able to get the RS to set with the tach signal to keep the car on, but it seems random when I program it multiple times.
My major concern is the clicking/grinding noise which doesnt occur when I use the ignition key.
KPierson 
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Posted: January 07, 2009 at 12:36 PM / IP Logged  

I would use a different tach reference - like a fuel injector.

The problem you are having is definately a sign that the tach signal isn't being read reliably.  Remote starts, since they are grounded to the battery, arn't capable of reading (-) voltages so your signal, to the remote start unit, becomes a (almost perfect) square wave with a 3.5vdc potential.  In theory 3.5vdc should be enough voltage to trigger the RPM input on the unit, but it obviously isn't.

When you say the wave is "not perfectly square" what does that mean?  Are there some quick pulses at the beginning or end?  That could also be why you are having issues - especially if the unit averages pulses.  Also, is the signal repeatable or does it have an abnormal signal back (like a crank or cam angle sensor would).

By going with a fuel injector you'll have a cleaner signal that will switch between 12vdc and ground and the remote start unit should have no problems reading that. 

The only other thing I can think to try is replacing the brain - maybe there is something damaged causing it to intermittenly screw up.

Kevin Pierson
pgkool 
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Posted: January 08, 2009 at 10:47 AM / IP Logged  
OK I will try to look for another one.
Yesterday I tried to remote start the car and it started and stayed on. After i got home(1 hour drive) I turned it off and remote started it again and it would start and shut off and try again. I didn't change any settings.
Does this sound like what you were refering to, a week tach signal. I just want to make sure, because it was a pain to find and wire.
KPierson 
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Posted: January 08, 2009 at 12:47 PM / IP Logged  

Almost any time a remote start system tries to crank the starter while the car is already running it is a tach related issue.  If the car starts and shuts off right away it could be a factory security issue or a tach issue.  However, since you said the car would start and stay on and recrank that is why, to me, it sounds like a tach issue.

Tach wires shouldn't be hard to find, just find a fuel injector and follow the wiring.  Tach wires may be hard to get to, but they shouldn't be hard to find.

Kevin Pierson
pgkool 
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Posted: January 18, 2009 at 7:06 PM / IP Logged  
Ok i tried a tach wire that was right off the engine, and it was abot 1V pk-pk AC. I dont know why this wire was not as strong but in the end, it did not help stop the starter from clicking.
Is there a way i can get a signal amplifer to maybe see if that is the issue?
KPierson 
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Posted: January 18, 2009 at 8:40 PM / IP Logged  
use a fuel injector.
Kevin Pierson
howie ll 
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Posted: January 19, 2009 at 4:44 AM / IP Logged  
Does this vehicle have a small black box, mounted on the front wheel arch which cables up to the injectors, if so open it and you will find some excess RED / black cable. This is one tach take off also on some Toyota/Lexus models, the OBD socket under dash, black with silver dots, also back of rev counter(tacho), on instrument panel, follow printed circuit.  Incidentally on a car that age, take an LED tester or just a 12volt LED, one side to ground.  MAC do a very good one part number something 120, will flash the LED faster as you increase the revs, works every time, quick and efficient.
pgkool 
Member - Posts: 13
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Joined: June 22, 2006
Posted: January 22, 2009 at 10:13 AM / IP Logged  
KPierson
Thankyou, I used this description
"NOTE *3 on the 4-Cylinder engine the BLACK wire is in a GRAY CONNECTOR located on the COIL, drivers side of the engine, on the V-6 use the GRAY wire located at the IGNITOR, located just in FRONT of the STRUT TOWER."
I am assuming this is the wire off the fuel injector, am i mistaken?
Howie II
Thankyou, I will try to look for thoes wires, there is a small black box with fueses. I will try the LED trick.
What do you mean by..."MAC do a very good one part number something 120"
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