cable sizes and fuses

Currently I have a 2002 crown vic and I have 4 gauge all the way to the trunk. I have a 600wrms amp for my kicker 12" L7 already. I want to get another kicker to go along with the first. I was looking at getting the hifonics BXI1608D amp. Says it pushed 1600W RMS at 1 ohm. It also has two 70amp fuses in the amp so it seems like it really puts out the listed power. Any one have any opinons on this amp? I will be running the subs at 1 ohm total. Can I still use the 4 Gauge wire or do I NEED 2 gauge or larger? Also How would I properly pick out a larger inline fuse or circuit breaker for the new amp? Thanks for any and all help.

ok the 4g is fine, you can use 4,2,0 or like me 0/4 that's going a little over board, I like that amp it is a good choice. if the amp has 2 70s you can go with 100 to 140 amp. you want it a little less so if there is a problem it blows the fuses in the front and not hurt your amp. That is a true 1600rms amp too. Push every bit of it. Will hope i helped and have a good oneRonald Bailey Owner/ Installer of VIBRATION CUSTUM SOUNDS. CUSTOM BOX DESIGNER AND BUILDER

TID-896 7" screen,Amp-BX1206d

4/0power/ground cables

4-12 mofos 12ft3 box tuned 40hz DB:163.1

Wrong answer! WAY wrong answer. 1: The underhood fuse is to protect the car and the power wire. Period. I want Ronald to install my stereo... NOT! It has ZERO to do with "if there is a problem it blows the fuses in the front and not hurt your amp". That is the job of the onboard fuses. The underhood fuse should NEVER blow, unless there is a catastrophic failure of the insulation of the primary power wire 2: 70X2=140. 140 is perfectly safe on a #4 power cable, which is safe with up to a 150A fuse in it. 150A is what the cable SHOULD be fused for. Again: Period, and end of argument. 3: 70X2X12=1680. That's only 1680 watts in. 1600/1680=95% efficient. I doubt it. It's an impossibility. 80% is more like it, which is only 1300 watts. Not a huge number in the big scheme of things, but it is NOT a 1600 watt amp.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

haemphyst wrote: Wrong answer! WAY wrong answer. 1: The underhood fuse is to protect the car and the power wire. Period. I want Ronald to install my stereo... NOT! It has ZERO to do with "if there is a problem it blows the fuses in the front and not hurt your amp". That is the job of the onboard fuses. The underhood fuse should NEVER blow, unless there is a catastrophic failure of the insulation of the primary power wire 2: 70X2=140. 140 is perfectly safe on a #4 power cable, which is safe with up to a 150A fuse in it. 150A is what the cable SHOULD be fused for. Again: Period, and end of argument. 3: 70X2X12=1680. That's only 1680 watts in. 1600/1680=95% efficient. I doubt it. It's an impossibility. 80% is more like it, which is only 1300 watts. Not a huge number in the big scheme of things, but it is NOT a 1600 watt amp.

You hit the nail on the head. 4 gauge, 150 amp fuse. Also im glad someone else can see the bs numbers to Hifonics amps. IM sure Its 95% efficient with SINE-WAVE power. Not with a resistive load. But thats how they roll. Play numbers games to sell product and before anyone tries to say anything. Yes i have used them. So yes i speak from experience with them.

Ok well, even if the amp pushes only 1300rms. that is still 650 a pieve when the kicker specs for a ported box calls for 600w rms. Either way I think that amp is good for the price. Similar amps from junker brands only have liek 90 smp for thier fuses. Is there any reason I should not use a circuit breaker in the engine bay rather than a MAXI fuse?

Also, does this box look too small insternal volume wise for the kickers? Seems to be built on the low end of the specs. Ebay

coldfusion11 wrote: Also, does this box look too small insternal volume wise for the kickers? Seems to be built on the low end of the specs. Ebay

one more to the list of noobs who don't read the rulesCustom Enclosure Design

coldfusion11 wrote: Ok well, even if the amp pushes only 1300rms. that is still 650 a pieve when the kicker specs for a ported box calls for 600w rms. Either way I think that amp is good for the price. Similar amps from junker brands only have liek 90 smp for thier fuses. Is there any reason I should not use a circuit breaker in the engine bay rather than a MAXI fuse?

Yes they are OK for the money and yes it will push 2 L7s 12s just fine. You need a inline fuse 150A no more than 1 foot from the batt. This is to protect your car. MAXI fuses dont go large enough to do this for 4 gauge wire.  The onboard fuse in the amp is to protect them amp.

 get an ANL style fuse and fuseholder.

aznboi3644 wrote: one more to the list of noobs who don't read the rules

anyways, id like to get a 150 amp circuit breaker, then It wont go out. It also looks better mounted and more factory looking. But I do not have the time and resources right now to build a box. I have built many in the past but it is winter now with no heated area to work in. Kickers specs 2.0 ft3 for a volume of a ported box so 1.7 each is stil 85% of its rec. So it shouldnt be TOO bad. Hope this all works out well. thanks for all of your guys help.