xk01 disarm with lock cylinder turn gm

phree_refill, It would be theoretically possible with a spare remote for the 23927, assuming you can solder to a PC board and the car (you didn't post year/make/model) has a disarm or unlock wire going to the key cylinder.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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chriswallace187 wrote: phree_refill, It would be theoretically possible with a spare remote for the 23927, assuming you can solder to a PC board and the car (you didn't post year/make/model) has a disarm or unlock wire going to the key cylinder.

She has a 2001 toyota avalon. I'm pretty sure it has a keysense wire for the lock cylinder. I know it has one for the ignition cylinder but taht obviously wouldn't help me if it doesn't also go to the door lock cylinder. Her car IS NOT equipped with the transponder anti theft system. I bought the directed 555x to bypass her transponder and then when I went to hook it up I discovered her car was not equipped witht the anti theft. I did not test any wires in her door to see if they are connected to her lock cylinder. Regardless, chriswallace could you please elaborate as to how I could solder a spare remote's PCB to a keysense wire to disarm the aftermarket alarm? I would actually like to know how cause I think that is a very handy skill to have. I would be imensely appreciative.    : )

The pertinent wire on the car is not the keysense(that's used to refer to the wire which switches to (-) when a key is present in the ignition key cylinder), but the driver's door key cylinder unlock switched wire, which switches to (-) when a key is turned in the driver's door to unlock it. I don't doubt at all that this car has a key cylinder which electrically locks/unlocks the doors; every Toyota I've ever seen with power locks does that. Anyway, I'm going to try to link some photos in another post briefly. I've had trouble getting them to show up before but hopefully they'll all be visible to you.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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Note the labeled jumper points. Since this particular PC board has 2 layers, the jumpers go between the front and back layer. Below is my remote viewed externally: Here's the first image without the text so you can see the traces a bit better: The back side of the remote: C Renner's Auto Electronix

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Back to the subject at hand, now that I've gotten my jollies by actually providing a useful photo for once... Using my Saturn's remote as an example, if I wanted to control it externally all I would need is a relay. The relay would be wired as follows: 85: (-) control circuit from vehicle or aftermarket control module 86: constant 12v fused (if you wanted to use a (+) control circuit you would connect it to 86 and 85 to ground) 87, 30: switch contact traces on the remote. It doesn't matter which one goes where. The switch contact traces are visible as the interlocking "E" shapes in the above pictures. When the remote is pressed it connects the two together to activate the circuit; our relay should do the same. As far as actually soldering to the remote's PCB, here's how I would hypothetically go about it. 1. Be patient; it will get frustrating. This would probably be best done with an assistant to hold the remote and wire while you solder them together. 2. Tools required would be an X-acto knife, very thin solder(.031 would probably work), very thin stranded wire(28 gauge, perhaps), and a 15-watt or lower soldering iron with a fine point tip. 3. Ideally you'd use a soldering station with heat control, but in any case you'll want to only touch the tip of the iron to the PCB for the fraction of a second that it will take to spread the solder. This will help avoid damaging the remote. 4. If you look closely at my remote you can see how there are hollow jumpers which connect circuits between the 2 layers of the board. You could probably try to run your wires into these to make the soldering less frustrating. In my case one of the jumpers for the "unlock" circuit goes through underneath where the solid-state device(KPierson, what exactly is that?) sits, so I'd solder to that circuit on the surface to avoid damage. 5. If soldering to the traces on the surface, and not the jumpers, use the X-acto knife to hold them in contact while soldering. This is a big PITA and since you probably don't have a hand each for the solder, the knife, and the iron, I'd again recommend an assistant if you have to do it. 6. Regardless of whether or not you have jumpers to solder through, you should "tin" both the wire and the point where you're soldering to the PCB before you join them together. 7. After you've made your soldered connections, test the wires to make sure they don't move, and use the X-acto to remove any points where circuits might have become shorted together. 8. This method will still require a good battery in the remote in order to function. Some folks on this forum could tell you how to get a lower voltage from the car in order to supply power for the remote as well; I'm not one of them at the moment. That's about it...feel free to post a photo of your actual spare remote if you're inclined, and I'll comment on it as well.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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Wow. The theory behind it seems extremely simple actually. You did a great job of explaining it. I will try to post a picture of my spare remote tonight when I get home from work. I haven't looked at the PC board on my remote so I may need a little help locating the unlock contacts.