2005 chrysler 300 blower motor

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bgraper

Member - Posts: 27

Joined: November 16, 2008

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: February 08, 2009 at 6:34 PM / IP Logged

Alright, just a little background to start:

I installed a remote start to this car around Christmas and it worked fine from the first start attempt...no issues. This past weekend, my large 8 gauge power supply wire (to a fuse panel that I installed to fuse all of my relays) was rubbing against the brake constantly and it wore through the shielding. The car filled with burning plastic smell, I cut the supply wire until I could figure out what was wrong.

I removed all relays and opened them to see if they were burnt. They were not.

I was driving the car around and everything worked fine except for the gauges (I believe it was supplied by the normally closed side of one of the relays I removed).

I spotted the problem, cut my supply wire where the burn was, luckily I had enough slack to just pull it forward a little bit.

I placed the relays back into positions and remote started. Everything again worked fine.

The blower now does not work. It worked the other day with the relays removed (tried that again today...makes no difference)....BUT the A/C button lights up with the blower speed switched to something, along with the rear defrost button (all on the same unit).

Any advice? I checked the fuses and they tested fine.

Also, it is the same whether I remote start or start with the key.

loneranger

Copper - Posts: 572

Joined: December 28, 2008

Posted: February 08, 2009 at 8:28 PM / IP Logged

Was the 8ga power lead routed properly?
Why did the power lead burn, if it was properly fused?

It could have been worse. The power lead could have blocked the brake pedal and caused serious injury.

Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.

Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?

Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

bgraper

Member - Posts: 27

Joined: November 16, 2008

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: February 08, 2009 at 8:43 PM / IP Logged

The wire had lots of slack, but was very stiff because it's so thick. It was resting against the brake pedal and the constant back and fourth movement between them caused the insulation to wear down and it eventually broke through and grounded out against the metal of the brake pedal.

It's routed to the battery through (actually beside the grommet....couldn't get it through), fused at the battery with a 60A (now...it wasn't fused before because they were out when I purchased).

ckeeler

Gold - Posts: 1,461

Joined: June 20, 2008

Location: New Mexico, United States

Posted: February 09, 2009 at 5:02 PM / IP Logged

it sounds like a bad blower motor resistor. but what you should really do so you will know.... is remove the power plug from the blower motor and test it for voltage. if you have voltage there you have a bad motor. no voltage then test at the resistor, if you have power in and none going out, you have a bad resistor. no voltage going into the resistor then post back, as we will have to do some digging to find the problem.

bgraper

Member - Posts: 27

Joined: November 16, 2008

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: February 09, 2009 at 5:32 PM / IP Logged

I downloaded the service manual and have been going through the wiring schematic.

All the grounds measure with resistances. The fuse tests fine.

The fuse is not getting any power however. I'm pretty sure the problem is in the "RUN RELAY" but my service manual does not specify which is the run relay. It only calls out fuses.

Which one is the run relay??

2005 chrysler 300 blower motor -- posted image.

ckeeler

Gold - Posts: 1,461

Joined: June 20, 2008

Location: New Mexico, United States

Posted: February 09, 2009 at 5:42 PM / IP Logged

i believe its this one. it will be marked "4727370AA" right on the relay.

2005 chrysler 300 blower motor -- posted image.

bgraper

Member - Posts: 27

Joined: November 16, 2008

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: February 09, 2009 at 6:27 PM / IP Logged

There are 4 of them in the front relay centre.

A few more in the rear realy panel.

Do you know which it is? Do you know a good way of testing them? Other than applying a +12V and seeing if it switches from Normally Closed to Normally Open?

loneranger

Copper - Posts: 572

Joined: December 28, 2008

Posted: February 09, 2009 at 8:47 PM / IP Logged

In your diagram, there should be another fuse before the relay.

Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.

Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?

Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

bgraper

Member - Posts: 27

Joined: November 16, 2008

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: February 09, 2009 at 8:55 PM / IP Logged

It is fused before it reaches the load.

That picture is straight from the 7500 page sercive manual from Chrysler. I took a snapshot out of a pdf. I did not draw it.

loneranger

Copper - Posts: 572

Joined: December 28, 2008

Posted: February 09, 2009 at 9:06 PM / IP Logged

bgraper wrote:

It is fused before it reaches the load.

Read my reply again. I said "before the relay", in other words, between the battery and the relay. I'm pretty sure is wasn't designed, without protection to the wire feeding the relay.

Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.

Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?

Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

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