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remote start: crank no start


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eficamaro 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 02, 2009
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: March 02, 2009 at 9:00 PM / IP Logged  
tried remote starting with key in ignition and still same issue
second ignition is connected to white wire as well
eficamaro 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 02, 2009
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: March 02, 2009 at 9:05 PM / IP Logged  
also i have a standard spare key that starts the truck. that seems to be only steel no plastic or chip that i can see.
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,601
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Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: March 02, 2009 at 9:09 PM / IP Logged  

putting the key in the ignition won't work for this vehicle, your immobiliser type is passlock 2 so therefore, inserting the key into the cylinder makes no difference, you'll need the bypass to simulate what the key does while cranking, read the following explanation given by and i quote his words "a superbly brilliant contributor to this site" chris wallace 187.

2. GM Passlock I/II type:

Passlock uses a resistor, like Passkey; however the resistor is located inside the ignition key cylinder, and the resistor code is sent once the key cylinder is turned to the crank position. Despite having an immobilizer, Passlock ignition keys are no different from conventional ignition keys. Passlock was introduced on the '95 Chevy Cavalier/Pontiac Sunfire and used on many GM models through 2007.
Bypassing specific immobilizer systems:
Passkey I/II, Passlock II -
Almost every security manufacturer who makes a bypass will have one available for these systems. They are quite common and are connected close to the remote start connections.
Passlock I('95-'99 Cavalier/Sunfire, '96-'98 Grand Am/Olds Achieva/Buick Skylark), and special late model Passlock('03-'07 Saturn Ion, '04-'07 Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon/Isuzu I-series, '05 only Chevy Cobalt) -
These cars also have bypasses available for them; however some bypasses which are designed for Passlock II will not work, so it's important to ensure that the bypass used says that it's compatible with these cars.
JW.ORG.
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
eficamaro 
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Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: March 02, 2009 at 9:11 PM / IP Logged  
that makes perfect sense... thank you for all your help T&T
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,601
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: March 02, 2009 at 9:12 PM / IP Logged  
you're most welcome. and remember to verify all wires with a meter.
JW.ORG.
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
eficamaro 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 02, 2009
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: March 02, 2009 at 9:13 PM / IP Logged  
will do. im using a low impeadence meter
97gss 
Copper - Posts: 235
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 02, 2009 at 10:17 PM / IP Logged  
t&t tech wrote:

putting the key in the ignition won't work for this vehicle, your immobiliser type is passlock 2 so therefore, inserting the key into the cylinder makes no difference, you'll need the bypass to simulate what the key does while cranking, read the following explanation given by and i quote his words "a superbly brilliant contributor to this site" chris wallace 187.

That's correct.  I had "transponder on the brain" while I was reading it.  Does the steel key have a black head or is the whole thing steel? 

eficamaro 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 02, 2009
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: March 02, 2009 at 10:23 PM / IP Logged  
whole thing is steel
97gss 
Copper - Posts: 235
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 03, 2009 at 5:41 PM / IP Logged  
Well that's interesting.  I thought all of the passlock keys had black heads on them. 
chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
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Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 04, 2009 at 3:52 AM / IP Logged  
Wow...I guess I've posted something useful at some point lol.
t&t tech is spot on as far as the key insertion.
Passlock keys made by GM all have the plastic head; however (at least on Cavaliers/Sunfires) that can sometimes wear off. The plastic is just cosmetic in any case, and it's not uncommon to have an aftermarket key made for a Passlock-equipped vehicle which will be plain steel. Unlike transponders or VATS keys, it doesn't have any special electrical properties which act as a theft deterrent.
The only way to test an install on a Passlock vehicle (similar to putting the transponder key in ignition) is to start it with the key and do a remote take-over. Granted this doesn't confirm that your Start wire connection is good, but it's the best you can do.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
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