problem with my clifford g5

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dragtuners

Member - Posts: 9

Joined: April 02, 2009

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: April 12, 2009 at 7:04 PM / IP Logged

my car is 1998 acura integra gsr i install everything by the book the alarm is a cliffort g5 770 everything works but when i try to start the car some times the alarm shirp ones and the car don't want to start if i activate the alarm and wait some times the alarm will let me start the car but i have not being able to start the car for 2 days now

any help ideas

thanks

ringojam

Copper - Posts: 215

Joined: June 10, 2003

Location: Manitoba, Jamaica

Posted: April 12, 2009 at 7:57 PM / IP Logged

Try and enter the code i mean the blacxjax code.

Jamaica home of the worlds fastest man.

dragtuners

Member - Posts: 9

Joined: April 02, 2009

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: April 12, 2009 at 8:39 PM / IP Logged

i do enter the code on the small pat and still do the same what is blackjax and how dose it worck i am totally new to this thanks for the replay

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: April 13, 2009 at 12:57 AM / IP Logged

Ringo, not familiar with this unit, does it have 2 immob. circuits like the UK 650Mkll? I bet one of these has a bad or dry joint, or not working correctly. In that case check all the cuts with a meter with ignition on. On that car ignition is BLACK / YELLOW and starter is BLACK/ white.

dragtuners

Member - Posts: 9

Joined: April 02, 2009

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: April 13, 2009 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged

thanks hoie the wirea are those but i am so new at this i will need a bit more help like what is a dry join and what icheck for o how i check it thanks

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: April 13, 2009 at 5:14 PM / IP Logged

Take a meter, make sure neither the alarm or immobiliser is on, set your meter to continuity settings (buzzer) and go across each joint, if you don't get continuity, redo the joints, if that fails you have a problem with one or both of the immobiliser circuits. A dry joint is where the solder hasn't been applied correctly and it hasn't "flowed" into the joint. After a while contact resistance builds up = no connection.

ringojam

Copper - Posts: 215

Joined: June 10, 2003

Location: Manitoba, Jamaica

Posted: April 13, 2009 at 6:59 PM / IP Logged

Very familiar with these alarms its a new installer im just trying to help out >why dont you disconnect the starter wires from the alarm and ignition wires you cut and put them back to factory standards and see if it starts , it could be yr starter going bad,I have installed very many of these units i have only had to return 1 unit its what i have on my personal ride.

Jamaica home of the worlds fastest man.

dragtuners

Member - Posts: 9

Joined: April 02, 2009

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: April 13, 2009 at 10:19 PM / IP Logged

ringojam wrote:

yes it will start the problem is when the alarm is connected i deactivate with the remote and then put the code with the switch open then try to start the car you can hear the engine start to turn and then stop that's when the chirp sound ones and then it wont start if i try to turn the key agen to start up the car the same happen

scirocco16v

Copper - Posts: 112

Joined: October 27, 2003

Posted: April 13, 2009 at 10:37 PM / IP Logged

I think i know what the problem is. It sounds like the one time auto arm bypass is being activated indicated by the chirp, which happens normally when you turn the ignition on then off rapidly. What this means is that it sounds like the ignition wire is dropping power from the ignition switch side either because of a faulty ignition connection, a bad connector to the alarm, or even a broken solder joint which was referred to earlier. it is also possible that if the alarm is set for normally open kills, that when the ignition drops out it also opens the starter relay circuit, which would stop it from cranking. It could be a long shot, but Thats what i deduce. i agree with the previous poster to put the wires back to factory and check ignition connections. If there is no bad connections or melting going on them the problem is in the alarm. On a possible related note, the one time out of 100's i have seen a g4 igniton molex melt was on a late 90's model accord. Maybe older honda products like alot of current through the ignition harness, the wires were always thick. Good luck

dragtuners

Member - Posts: 9

Joined: April 02, 2009

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: April 13, 2009 at 11:08 PM / IP Logged

thanks alot for all the info guys well like i previous post i have put the wires back to factory and the car starts with no problem what so ever all the conections are brand new and there is no problem with them now if the problem is the alarm how i change it o where i can call thanks

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