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viper 5901 into a 2005 nissan 350z


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zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 27, 2009 at 8:34 AM / IP Logged  
I want to confirm the door lock wiring before I start.
The factory wires I will be using are blue and red. They are located in the door and are triggered from the drivers keyhole, not the switchpack.
The blue seems to control the unlock and the red controls locking.
Both rest at 5v.
I used a blue wire for bringing the factory blue into the cabin
and I used a green wire for bringing the factory red into the cabin.
The 5901 alarm has a 3 pin - 2 wire connector door lock harness.
One pin is unused. It uses:
Blue for (+) Lock (-) Unlock
Green for (-) Lock (+) Unlock
Kevin stated I can extend the pulse to operate the windows from here
and that the "comfort" setting can roll the windows up on ARM with an AUX channel controlling the window down.
I like this approach so I'd like to wire it this way.
I am confused why the 5901 wires are listed as (+) Lock (-) Unlock
and (-) Lock (+) Unlock when both factory wires rest at 5v.
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
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Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: April 27, 2009 at 8:55 AM / IP Logged  

The lock/unlock outputs toggle each time you lock/unlock the car.

So, when you lock the car there will be a (-) out on the green wire and a (+) out on the blue wire.  When you unlock the car there will be a (-) out on the blue wire and a (+) on the green wire.  You are only worried about the (-) side, the (+) voltage will be ignored and won't hurt anything on the BCM.

Some cars need (+) outputs instead of (-), this was a clever way to make their system compatible with every door lock system on the market.

Kevin Pierson
zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 27, 2009 at 9:12 AM / IP Logged  
So which wire goes to what then?
If I understand you correctly, I should connect the 5901 blue
to factory blue and 5901 green to factory red (now green in the cabin)
The worst thing that happens is the locks work in reverse??
The 5901 AUX harness has three 200mA AUX outputs. Shall I take AUX 1
and splice it into the unlock, which is also the disarm if I am not mistaken.
zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 27, 2009 at 9:43 AM / IP Logged  
The 12Volt.com wiring guide for the 03-05 Nissan 350Z is
incomplete. It can be found here: the12Volt.com 350Z wiring guide
It lacks the wiring BCM location for all wires. It lacks any information for the following wires:
Keysense
Data Bus
Can Bus High
Can Bus Low
Hazards
Turn Signal
Turn Signal
Headlight
Reverse Light
Dome Supervision
Trunk/Hatch Pin
Trunk/Hatch Release
Fuel Door Release - Blue/Red - (-) - Release switch on dash
Factory Alarm Arm
Pactory Alarm Disarm
Left Front Window
Right Front Window
_______________________________________________________________
Here is the data taken from the only 350Z wiring guide here on 12volt.com
12volt-WHITE/ blue    at harness
starter-WHITE/ red at harness
2nd starter-WHITE/ green at harness
ignition-BLACK/ red at harness
acc-WHITE/ black at harness
lock-red -drivers door module in door
unlock-lt blue(double pulse)
parking lights(+)-RED / blue-drivers kick
door trigger-white(L) pink(R)white plug at bcm in drivers kick
tach-not black or WHITE/ blue at coil
brake-pink/blue at switch
parking brake-purple(-) at switch
horn(-)GREEN/ black-at column
transponder based security needs a bypass 555-u
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: April 27, 2009 at 10:29 AM / IP Logged  

Yes, you are correct on all points.

If you hook it up wrong they will just operate backwards, there really isn't any risk of damage.

Kevin Pierson
zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 27, 2009 at 10:51 AM / IP Logged  
Kevin,
Thank you.
If you lived near me, I'd take you out for drinks for all of your help.
I cut the pink wire for the hatch pop and sure enough, the button at the back of the car doesn't work anymore. I am just hesitant to connect the 5901 to this wire. The same goes for the hazards, I found the wire at the BCM and when it is cut, the hazards don't work but I am hesitant to connect the 5901 to it as well.
Chris Luongo wrote:
My opinion: You want parking lights during remote start, but hazards when locking and unlocking. But that's up to you.
I agree, that does sound more "OEMish"
Chris Luongo wrote:
Hazards: Yes, you found the right wire. Putting a ground to the wire turns the hazards on; removing the ground turns them off.
So your saying, (since I cut that wire) reconnect the wire as it was from the factory, then introduce a ground to the wire and the hazards should come on?
No sparks or melted wires? No blown fuses or burned BCM contacts inside?
Chris Luongo wrote:
If it were my car, I'd grab your "factory alarm disarm" and "factory alarm rearm" wires from the Viper, and tie them BOTH to the car's hazard wire.
That way, every time you unlock, and every time you lock, you'll get a brief hazard flash which looks nice.
So if I didn't destroy anything with the ground test from the above
quote, I can make a 3 way solder joint between the OEM hazard wire and the 5901 factory security system arm & disarm wires.
Chris Luongo wrote:
You'll also end up with a hazard flash every time the remote start turns on, and every time it times out or you turn it off by remote.
That would be nice.
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: April 27, 2009 at 10:55 AM / IP Logged  
Why are you hesitant?  You've verified with documentation, a meter, and by cutting the wire.  I'm not sure what else you can do to be certain you have the correct wires.
Kevin Pierson
zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 27, 2009 at 10:59 AM / IP Logged  
KPierson wrote:
Why are you hesitant?  You've verified with documentation, a meter, and by cutting the wire.  I'm not sure what else you can do to be certain you have the correct wires.
LOL
Because this car is demonic. viper 5901 into a 2005 nissan 350z - Page 10 -- posted image.
zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 27, 2009 at 11:13 AM / IP Logged  
The 5901 has a (-) 500mA Ground When Armed Output.
Can this be used to flash the hazards? or anything else useful?
zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 27, 2009 at 12:23 PM / IP Logged  
Well I wanted to test things so far.
I connected the brain and it arms, disarms fine. I have the parking lights connected and they flash as expected. The doors lock fine but unlock requires pressing the unlock button twice.
The XK07 learned what it needed but remote start does not work, I am guessing because I don't have the 5901 hood pin wire grounded.
I don't have the trunk pop or extended pulse for the windows connected yet. I want to make sure the basics work before moving on to more complex operations.
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