viper 5901 into a 2005 nissan 350z

This alarm is on my very last nerve.I connected the hood pin, know what I get for my trouble?8 flashes when trying to remote start.Yes, I know, NSS shutdown. You see, the problem with that bs is that I checked for ground on the NSS wire in the 5 pin remote start aux harness and guess what I found? Ground. Ground      Ground    Ground.Is it looking for superground? maybe deluxe ground? I only know of one ground in the car and it has every bit of it that it wants.Any thoughts?Oh, disconnecting the hood wire didn't undo this mess either.EDIT----------------------------------------------------------------It turns out, I had unpluged the remote start disable switch, thinking I wouldn't use that so why put it in. I had it plugged in for testing but unplugged it afterwords. It turns out, the system won't remote start without it. My last remaining issue is the 2 way remote. Anyone with a suggestion for me to try before contacting the dealer. I just don't have any confidence he will send me one that works any better and I suspect if the 2nd one does the same thing he may try and suggest it is the installation and not the equipment.

zenica wrote: If I get a Bitwriter, what would be the advantage to changing the time from 30 sec to 10 or 15 sec? Now, do you have any words of wisdom regarding the 2 way remote not cooperating with remote start?

If you turn the key to lock or unlock and hold it in that position until the windows are all the way up or down, how long does it take? Probably 10 seconds max.   Why have it try to open/close the windows longer than needed? Also, if you ever hit the aux button to roll the windows up, then decide you need to unlock the door right away, you may have to wait 30 seconds to do so. If ground is being held on the lock wire, and you pulse ground to the unlock wire I assume the doors don't unlock. I've never tested it, and it may never actually come into play in normal everyday life....but I'm very picky when working on my own personal vehicles. I always had a bitwriter when installing DEI stuff, so I would have made the change. Don't think I would buy one just for changing that one setting, but if you see yourself using it occasionally pick one up. Its much better than counting chirps to program. I have no idea why the 2-way remote will not start the car every time, but the 1-way will. I stopped installing DEI about 4 years ago and use Compustar now. I still read DEI's forum and have seen lots of issues with remotes on the recent systems. I just don't know which particular models have the problem. You'll have to have someone with more recent DEI experience help on this one.

JWorm wrote: zenica wrote: If I get a Bitwriter, what would be the advantage to changing the time from 30 sec to 10 or 15 sec? Now, do you have any words of wisdom regarding the 2 way remote not cooperating with remote start? If you turn the key to lock or unlock and hold it in that position until the windows are all the way up or down, how long does it take? Probably 10 seconds max.   Why have it try to open/close the windows longer than needed? Also, if you ever hit the aux button to roll the windows up, then decide you need to unlock the door right away, you may have to wait 30 seconds to do so. If ground is being held on the lock wire, and you pulse ground to the unlock wire I assume the doors don't unlock. I've never tested it, and it may never actually come into play in normal everyday life....but I'm very picky when working on my own personal vehicles. I always had a bitwriter when installing DEI stuff, so I would have made the change. Don't think I would buy one just for changing that one setting, but if you see yourself using it occasionally pick one up. Its much better than counting chirps to program. I have no idea why the 2-way remote will not start the car every time, but the 1-way will. I stopped installing DEI about 4 years ago and use Compustar now. I still read DEI's forum and have seen lots of issues with remotes on the recent systems. I just don't know which particular models have the problem. You'll have to have someone with more recent DEI experience help on this one.

Could this "30 seconds" explain why sometimes, not always when the system is armed and I disarm, the doors do not unlock, and if I try with the key, it feels like someone is in the car keeping their little finger on the lock button.

KPierson wrote: The door lock actuator is controlled directly by the BCM.  It is a timed output and the actuator shuts off after roughly 0.7 seconds.  Extending the trigger on the "LOCK" wire should not cause the actuator to stay energized.

Then can the 5901 be doing it? I imagine the locks are being pulsed or commanded to "lock" only because when I insert the key to manually override the alarm and unlock the door, something is opposing the turn of the key in the keyhole, now either this car truly is haunted or the actuator is engaged.

KPierson wrote: However, as JWorm mentioned, putting a ground on both the "LOCK" and "UNLOCK" wire at the same time will result in an "undefined" state of the door lock system because in normal use this condition is impossible.  I would assume the DEI unit would turn off the comfort closing feature before turning on the unlock output.  And, in fact, it would almost have to since the door lock/unlock outputs are +/-.  This is assuming we are still talking about using the comfort closing (I have skipped a few posts).

As I understand it, this would apply in the event I was trying two consecutive actions that call for (-) to be pulsed followed by a (+) but so far, I have not done that. The two times this has happened, the system was already armed, I simply wished to disarm.The 5901 gave the audible chirp and light flash that I disarmed and the status LED indicates disarm but the doors did not unlock.

KPierson wrote: Overdriving the windows on this car won't hurt them, there is a limit switch at the top of travel that will cause the BCM  to quit trying to close the window when it reaches the top.  The only reason to shorten the time down a bit would be if there was a conflict between locking and unlocking as mentioned above.  Also, remember Nissans have crappy power window systems that really slow down over time.  I would keep the "LOCK" pulse a bit long so you have years of troublefree closing out of the alarm.

Provided I obtain a Bitwriter, what would you and JWorm suggest is a good time to set the pulse for?

zenica wrote: JWorm wrote: zenica wrote: If I get a Bitwriter, what would be the advantage to changing the time from 30 sec to 10 or 15 sec? Now, do you have any words of wisdom regarding the 2 way remote not cooperating with remote start? If you turn the key to lock or unlock and hold it in that position until the windows are all the way up or down, how long does it take? Probably 10 seconds max.   Why have it try to open/close the windows longer than needed? Also, if you ever hit the aux button to roll the windows up, then decide you need to unlock the door right away, you may have to wait 30 seconds to do so. If ground is being held on the lock wire, and you pulse ground to the unlock wire I assume the doors don't unlock. I've never tested it, and it may never actually come into play in normal everyday life....but I'm very picky when working on my own personal vehicles. I always had a bitwriter when installing DEI stuff, so I would have made the change. Don't think I would buy one just for changing that one setting, but if you see yourself using it occasionally pick one up. Its much better than counting chirps to program. I have no idea why the 2-way remote will not start the car every time, but the 1-way will. I stopped installing DEI about 4 years ago and use Compustar now. I still read DEI's forum and have seen lots of issues with remotes on the recent systems. I just don't know which particular models have the problem. You'll have to have someone with more recent DEI experience help on this one. Could this "30 seconds" explain why sometimes, not always when the system is armed and I disarm, the doors do not unlock, and if I try with the key, it feels like someone is in the car keeping their little finger on the lock button.

Hmm, yes, that does make sense. I like KPierson's reply, and agree with him. If I can say it in my own way of saying things: 1. The car has all kinds of protection circuitry built in. You could probably turn the key in the door to "lock" and stand there in your driveway holding it like that all night without harming anything. 2. What the car does not expect is for you to somehow magically turn the key to "lock" and "unlock" at the same time. 3. When you hit that 30-second pulse to roll up the windows.........but then in 29 seconds or less you try to unlock the car, you're effectively doing the same thing as in #2. 4. I think your options are this:    A, forget about trying to unlock the car within 30 seconds of window rollup, B, reprogram the AUX output you're using to "validity," so you have to HOLD the button and release it when the windows close, C, get hold of a BitWriter, and program that output for something more suitable; probably 10 seconds. P.S. Is this a feature you're going to use every day, or just on the few occations you forgot to close the windows? If it were my car, I'd go with A. Because how often are you going to forget to close your windows, AND realize you also forgot something inside the car and need to open it up again right now?

Chris Luongo wrote: zenica wrote: JWorm wrote: zenica wrote: If I get a Bitwriter, what would be the advantage to changing the time from 30 sec to 10 or 15 sec? Now, do you have any words of wisdom regarding the 2 way remote not cooperating with remote start? If you turn the key to lock or unlock and hold it in that position until the windows are all the way up or down, how long does it take? Probably 10 seconds max.   Why have it try to open/close the windows longer than needed? Also, if you ever hit the aux button to roll the windows up, then decide you need to unlock the door right away, you may have to wait 30 seconds to do so. If ground is being held on the lock wire, and you pulse ground to the unlock wire I assume the doors don't unlock. I've never tested it, and it may never actually come into play in normal everyday life....but I'm very picky when working on my own personal vehicles. I always had a bitwriter when installing DEI stuff, so I would have made the change. Don't think I would buy one just for changing that one setting, but if you see yourself using it occasionally pick one up. Its much better than counting chirps to program. I have no idea why the 2-way remote will not start the car every time, but the 1-way will. I stopped installing DEI about 4 years ago and use Compustar now. I still read DEI's forum and have seen lots of issues with remotes on the recent systems. I just don't know which particular models have the problem. You'll have to have someone with more recent DEI experience help on this one. Could this "30 seconds" explain why sometimes, not always when the system is armed and I disarm, the doors do not unlock, and if I try with the key, it feels like someone is in the car keeping their little finger on the lock button. Hmm, yes, that does make sense. I like KPierson's reply, and agree with him. If I can say it in my own way of saying things: 1. The car has all kinds of protection circuitry built in. You could probably turn the key in the door to "lock" and stand there in your driveway holding it like that all night without harming anything. 2. What the car does not expect is for you to somehow magically turn the key to "lock" and "unlock" at the same time. 3. When you hit that 30-second pulse to roll up the windows.........but then in 29 seconds or less you try to unlock the car, you're effectively doing the same thing as in #2. 4. I think your options are this:    A, forget about trying to unlock the car within 30 seconds of window rollup, B, reprogram the AUX output you're using to "validity," so you have to HOLD the button and release it when the windows close, C, get hold of a BitWriter, and program that output for something more suitable; probably 10 seconds. P.S. Is this a feature you're going to use every day, or just on the few occations you forgot to close the windows? If it were my car, I'd go with A. Because how often are you going to forget to close your windows, AND realize you also forgot something inside the car and need to open it up again right now?

I agree. I will probably go with answer A until I get a Bitwriter.

Chris Luongo wrote: A, forget about trying to unlock the car within 30 seconds of window rollup

I assume this also true for locking or arming the system. But I didn't do anything with the car or the remote in the 30 seconds that preceded my disarming the alarm. In fact, I hadn't done anything for a good 30 minutes prior so why did the doors not unlock and why did the drivers door lock feel as if the actuator was engaged?

zenica wrote: Then can the 5901 be doing it? I imagine the locks are being pulsed or commanded to "lock" only because when I insert the key to manually override the alarm and unlock the door, something is opposing the turn of the key in the keyhole, now either this car truly is haunted or the actuator is engaged.

I personally don't think so - as I said the door locks are controlled by the BCM, not by the alarm.  The BCM won't continously hold power on the actuator - it is set to time out.  If, for some reason, the actuator was stating energized I would think you would be able to here it fire continuously (instead of firing once and holding).

zenica wrote: Provided I obtain a Bitwriter, what would you and JWorm suggest is a good time to set the pulse for?

From my experiance with them 10 seconds is a great number. 

Kevin Pierson

Well, one last call to DEI and they swear up & down thatthe remote had to have been programmed with a Bitwriterand somehow lost or was never programmed with remote start.I am going to see if a local alarm shop has a Bitwriterand will program it for me (at a reasonable $$).EDIT------------------------------------------------------------------I went to an alarm shop today, he said he could program it witha Bitwriter "for a few dollars" so I'll test DEI's theory.I am going to add a 2nd 2-way remote as a backup. I'll post theresults.

I took the car in to the alarm shop today.They programmed the 2-way remote and now it remote startsthe car without a problem. They changed the AUX 2 window rolldown to 10 seconds but were unable to add a 3rd remote.I wanted a 2-way and unbeknown to us at the time was/is thatthe 5901 remotes operate at 900MHz and is different from allother 2-way DEI systems, thus the 5901 remotes he has willnot work for it.I would have liked a second 2-way remote but at least I cannow start putting the car back together.For all those that have made this install possible, I have set aside a few $$$ to say thanks. Would those of you that have helped prefer a little somthing something in your PayPal or that I donate to 12volt.com?