viper 5901 into a 2005 nissan 350z

For the 2 way remote not starting the car, I (yea, I know, I'm a glutton for punishment) called DEI but this time I LIED! I swore on a stack of pancakes it was installed at Best Buy! I asked him if he was aware of a revision to the 5901 to address a short coming with the 2 way remote, he asked what kind of short coming (not denying that one exists) and when I told him, he asked if the remote was programmed with the Bitwriter. I felt like saying, let me take a look-see in my garage for one...but I refrained. I had to say I didn't know if "Best Buy" used one but of course I know I didn't. Boy these guys are adept at deflecting the question and not having to answer anything. Is it possible the remote isn't programmed? If so, how do I do that?

t&t tech wrote: if it's the RED / white wire you're reffering to and it's already connected, you have to press and hold the button to roll the windows, releasing the button will halt the windows at that point, remember to diode isolate the unlock and auxillary wires, to avoid problems.

I need one diode? with the stripe facing the alarm AUX wire? The attach this wire to the 5901 blue door unlock wire?Isn't that like the 5901 connecting to another leg of itself? (if I understood you correct)

you need two diodes, one amp, the sides without the stripe, twist them together leavin the othe two ends separate, connect the twisted side to the unlock wire in the car, and the other two ends connect one to the RED / white and the other to the unlock wire, insulate this connection properly making sure the untwisted side doesn't come into contact with each other.commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

t&t tech wrote: you need two diodes, one amp, the sides without the stripe, twist them together leavin the othe two ends separate, connect the twisted side to the unlock wire in the car, and the other two ends connect one to the RED / white and the other to the unlock wire, insulate this connection properly making sure the untwisted side doesn't come into contact with each other.

Like in this illustration I made? If so, I am not afraid to say----I'm confused.

Don't use the RED / white wire for window roll down. You want to use one of the AUX output wires. Look in the owners manual and see how you activate the AUX channels. Whatever button combination you find that you think will be easy to use, use that output. Connect the AUX output to the unlock wire in the car. I wouldn't put a diode on it, but it won't hurt if you do. STripe toward the alarm side.... You then need to go into programming and change the AUX output you used to "30 second timed". If you have access to a bitwriter, you could custom program it to about 10 seconds. The unlock output needs to see an extended pulse on it to roll down the windows. The RED / white wire is being used for trunk release already, and it can not be programmed for an extended output. DEI's programming menu is easy compared to some other brands. You should try programming a Compustar alarm without a programmer and see if you want to pull out any remaining hair you have. I assume you have the siren or horn connected so you can count chirps....if not, that is why you are having so much trouble. Also, DEI tech support is meant for dealers that already have an understanding of their products. If they had to provide tech support for customers, then would need to triple their staff which would drive up the price of their overpriced products even more than they are now. I'm confused by your diagram. Over/under on total pages of this post is 20....I'm taking the over :)

JWorm wrote: Don't use the RED / white wire for window roll down. You want to use one of the AUX output wires. Look in the owners manual and see how you activate the AUX channels. Whatever button combination you find that you think will be easy to use, use that output. Connect the AUX output to the unlock wire in the car. I wouldn't put a diode on it, but it won't hurt if you do. STripe toward the alarm side.... You then need to go into programming and change the AUX output you used to "30 second timed". If you have access to a bitwriter, you could custom program it to about 10 seconds. The unlock output needs to see an extended pulse on it to roll down the windows. The RED / white wire is being used for trunk release already, and it can not be programmed for an extended output. DEI's programming menu is easy compared to some other brands. You should try programming a Compustar alarm without a programmer and see if you want to pull out any remaining hair you have. I assume you have the siren or horn connected so you can count chirps....if not, that is why you are having so much trouble. Also, DEI tech support is meant for dealers that already have an understanding of their products. If they had to provide tech support for customers, then would need to triple their staff which would drive up the price of their overpriced products even more than they are now. I'm confused by your diagram. Over/under on total pages of this post is 20....I'm taking the over :)

JWorm,Thanks for your post.I will get a diode and try as you suggest tomorrow, then report back.I am thinking of getting a Bitwriter. I have 3 cars with DEI alarms and any future vehicle will have a DEI as well. I had the alarm speaker connected so I could hear the chirps as well as the LED on the valet/antenna module blink. I was just frustrated, it reminded me of the Nissan key/door sequence to reset an SRS light, both are like Mercedes Benz, over engineered and 90% unnecessary. I have never had an alarm that was not DEI so I have no experience with other brands...and DEI told me, ONLY the 5901 is not customer supported. All other DEI products can be supported by them. I have a knack for picking the odd man out. My diagram tried to follow T&T's suggestion! Just goes to show I was confused when I made it!Tomorrow, I just need to wrap up with the remote window operation, put together a nice small reed under the hood with a magnet for a make shift hood pin switch and figure out if the alarm is screwed or the 2 way remote just needs to be programmed. The book said the remote can be programmed but didn't say how.

zenica wrote: The book said the remote can be programmed but didn't say how.

Look on page 34 on the install guide.

JWorm wrote: zenica wrote: The book said the remote can be programmed but didn't say how. Look on page 34 on the install guide.

Yes, I saw that and it is the same as pages 35 thru 37 in the Owners Manual but neither one shows how (if it is even possible) to program the 2 way remote to not remote start. This also wouldn't explain how my 2 way remote got programmed like this in the first place. Plus I doubt if it was programmed not to remote start that it would make a funky buzzing noise and display "remote Start Error" on the LCD.I tend to think the DEI guy gave me a bs answer to get me off his phone.I think there is a defect in the unit. The 1-way will remote start every time.Which Bitwriter should I be looking at?I'd want the most current, up to date one but one that can still communicate with the 791 series.

JWorm wrote: ... use one of the AUX output wires. Connect the AUX output to the unlock wire in the car. I wouldn't put a diode on it, but it won't hurt if you do. Stripe toward the alarm side.... You then need to go into programming and change the AUX output you used to "30 second timed". If you have access to a bitwriter, you could custom program it to about 10 seconds. The unlock output needs to see an extended pulse on it to roll down the windows.

Done.I put AUX 1 for window roll up (without having to arm the DEI system but I am guessing the OEM system will arm). The only issue is there seems to be a delay on the roll up, roll down has almost zero delay.I put AUX II for window roll downThey both seem to work fine. I will probably use a diode when I solder those connection, right now they are just taped while I test for functionality. If I get a Bitwriter, what would be the advantage to changing the time from 30 sec to 10 or 15 sec?Now, do you have any words of wisdom regarding the 2 way remote not cooperating with remote start?EDIT:------------------------------------------------------------------I decided to cut the factory security LED and splice in the XK07 to prevent the LED from being on while remote starting the car.That LED is a lot brighter than I gave it credit for.