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viper 5901 into a 2005 nissan 350z


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KPierson 
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Posted: April 23, 2009 at 7:50 PM / IP Logged  

I would do it without the XK02.

As long as you can make solid solder joints I wouldn't worry about the splices.  I would be more concerned with splicing in to data lines then control lines anyway.

Again, 90% of the wires will be at the BCM in the drivers kick.

Kevin Pierson
zenica 
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Posted: April 23, 2009 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged  
The XK07 bypasses the OEM security system without requiring a key
so this module I need. Do you have a suggestion on how to wire in the 5901 to the door locks and windows? From what I understand, your saying the windows would be accessed through the door lock wiring, just a longer pulse. Will this require a relay or anything? Would it be two splices or a bridging of three lines (The OEM line + the alarm lock line + the alarm window line all in one splice) x 2 (one for lock/window up and one for unlock/window down)?
zenica 
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Posted: April 23, 2009 at 9:33 PM / IP Logged  
If I am wiring as you suggest, how many wires will I need to route into the drivers door (for window and lock operation)?
zenica 
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Posted: April 23, 2009 at 9:58 PM / IP Logged  
Also, I located the BCM but this black box right below the fuse junction block has 3 connectors. How the heck do I know which one has the wires I need when looking for pin 21, or any other pin for that matter.
KPierson 
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Posted: April 24, 2009 at 6:00 AM / IP Logged  

You should only need to run two wires in to the door.  The other wires can be spliced to it inside the cabin.

You don't need any relays, the lock / unlock wires are (-) low current wires.  How exactly you wire it up will depend on how you want everything to work, the features the alarm has, and the amount of AUX channels available.

To find the wires at the BCM you need to use a volt meter.  This should be done on EVERY wire BEFORE you make any connections.  This is the most important step in the entire process.

Another very important step is to make sure you seal the molex connector back up in the door.  Otherwise, water can travel from the door to the cabin and drip right on to that BCM.

Kevin Pierson
zenica 
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Posted: April 24, 2009 at 8:33 AM / IP Logged  
I noticed that the XK07, OEM ignition security bypass, taps into BCM 21 & 22 (pink and blue respectively). What would/should these read on a DVOM and at what ignition state? Only two wires into the door? for both the locks and window operations?
I want the alarm to be able to remote start, lock/unlock roll the windows up on lock, be able to roll them up/down via remote pop the hatch with the remote and advise me of tomorrow lottery numbers.
Where can I see how many channels the 5901 has? would this be in the product literature?
Chris Luongo 
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Posted: April 24, 2009 at 10:08 AM / IP Logged  
DISCLAIMER: Because the 350z is a specialty car and they don't sell a lot of them, I only have experience with maybe a half-dozen. But the elecrical system is the same on most Nissans.....G, Maxima, FX, Altima.....and I've worked on plenty of all those.
Anyway,
1. XK02: I never saw much value in this product. There's already a way to control the locks without splicing or running wires into the doors:
http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=10529&highlight=Nissan
2. 530T: Useable but unnecessary. On your car, if you simply apply extended pulses to the lock/unlock wires, your car already has a factory feature to roll the windows up and down.
NOTE: The doorlock method mentioned in #1 does NOT do the windows. You need to run the wires into the driver's door, which isn't even very hard on that car. Also, the XK02 doesn't control the windows either.
Go to the link in #1, go to page 4, for a little more information on window control.
3. XK07: The manual could stand to have a little more information.
The car's pink and blue CAN wires are not easy to test, but they are easy to find. They're in a corner of the plug at the BCM, and are a twisted pair.
If you connect the XK07's data wires incorrectly, it simply won't program. You won't break anything.
The pink and pink/white wires go to a small relay inside the XK07, and their purpose is to interrupt the wire going to the car's security LED during remote start and after key takeover.
You could actually not even connect the pink and pink/white, and the system will work 100% fine......but the security light on the car would stay on until the end of your trip.
If you find it any easier.....the OBDII diagnostics port under the driver's dash also has Constant, Ground, Ignition, CAN H, and CAN L.....you could hook the XK07 up over there if you like.
The security LED wire you'll probably just want to get at pin 38 of the BCM as listed in the guide, but you can also go right to the security LED directly if you want.
TIP: You wanted to know how the wires would test.....turn the car off, remove the key. The security LED wire will test as a brief ground every time the LED flashes.
Also, when you do go to cut the wire in half on the car, verify that the LED on the dash stops working. If it still flashes, you cut the wrong wire.
4. Windows control using factory Nissan wires. Yes, as KPierson says, just connect one wire to the lock/arm wire in the door, another to the unlock/disarm..........and run those two wires into the passenger compartment.
You'd then connect your Viper's lock and unlock wires respectively, but also splice on some AUX channels from your Viper......but if you make these splices, say, down in the kick panel, it makes future changes/repairs much easier and neater than if you ran a bunch of wires into the door.
5. Violating factory wires. There really aren't that many wires you'll need to connect to anyway.   What do we have? Parking lights, brake, trunk, domelight (you can use the car's "domelight supervision" wire as your door trigger), trunk pin, maybe tachometer (but it's under the hood).......and your six main wires at the ignition switch.
The most challenging connections will be at the ignition switch. There's very little room to work, the wires are very thick, and you have to make good, reliable connections.
After that, you'll find splicing in the brake and parking light wires to be easy, and almost non-intrusive to the car.
If you really do want to avoid adding wires to the car, look at idatalink products. Their module gives you door trigger, brake.....and a bunch of other things that the competition doesn't. Just go to idatalink.ca, put in your car, and look at the install guides.
6. D2D. Don't worry, you're not missing much. I think the marketing department worked very hard on the D2D concept....it's too bad the engineers didn't. It works about half the time, it's poorly supported, and they don't seem to be making too many apologies for it.
KPierson 
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Posted: April 24, 2009 at 10:39 AM / IP Logged  

Chris Luongo wrote:
5. Violating factory wires. There really aren't that many wires you'll need to connect to anyway.   What do we have? Parking lights, brake, trunk, domelight (you can use the car's "domelight supervision" wire as your door trigger), trunk pin, maybe tachometer (but it's under the hood).......and your six main wires at the ignition switch.

The tach wire can be picked up under the passenger dash at the ECU - it's easy to get to just pull the panel down (it unsnaps) and the wires are all right there.

Kevin Pierson
zenica 
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Posted: April 24, 2009 at 10:40 AM / IP Logged  
Chris,
I wanted to post a thank you, even before I re-read your post to fully absorb the content. Between you and KPierson, I would be able to get this done and done in a way I am happy with.
I will run wires to the door, I already soldered in the wires for the XK07 at BCM pin 21 and 22, I skipped the alarm LED since I could care less about it.
I am going to reread your post as well as KPierson's and get back to the car...thanks again to both of you.
zenica 
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Posted: April 24, 2009 at 11:11 AM / IP Logged  
I am running the wires into the door now, I am running 4 wires, two for the lock/unlock/up/down and two for another pet project in the mirror.
I am running a blue and a green for the lock/unlock/up/down since the 5901 has a 3 pin connector (one pin unused) with a blue and green wire used for the door lock/unlock.
Which wires at the window switch do I tap into? or do I tap into the lock switch instead? also, does the alarm interrupt the factory wire
or just tap into it?
I took the following colors from 12volt.com
(https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=96449&get=last)
Power Lock BLACK/ red - driver door module in door, pin 6
Power Unlock lt. blue (double pulse) - driver door module in door, pin 7
Why does it differentiate unlock as a double pulse but not lock?
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