viper 5901 into a 2005 nissan 350z

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zenica

Copper - Posts: 116

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Joined: August 08, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: April 24, 2009 at 11:28 AM / IP Logged

As a follow up to my last post.

Would I be interfacing the alarm into the factory wire at the window/lock switch pack or the factory wire for the lock cylinder?

I don't have these at the switchpack:

Power Lock BLACK/ red - driver door module in door, pin 6

Power Unlock lt. blue (double pulse) - driver door module in door, pin 7

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: April 24, 2009 at 12:49 PM / IP Logged

zenica wrote:

Which wires at the window switch do I tap into? or do I tap into the lock switch instead? also, does the alarm interrupt the factory wire

or just tap into it?

I took the following colors from 12volt.com

(https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=96449&get=last)

Power Lock BLACK/ red - driver door module in door, pin 6

Power Unlock lt. blue (double pulse) - driver door module in door, pin 7

Why does it differentiate unlock as a double pulse but not lock?

Lock only requires a single pulse, unlock requires a double pulse. This goes back to the fact that if you stick your key in the key cylinder you must turn it to unlock, release it, and then turn it to unlock a 2nd time to unlock the doors. The first turn mechanically unlocks the drivers door only, the second turn electronically unlocks both doors. Therefore, if you pulse that wire twice both doors will unlock.

zenica wrote:

As a follow up to my last post.

Would I be interfacing the alarm into the factory wire at the window/lock switch pack or the factory wire for the lock cylinder?

I don't have these at the switchpack:

Power Lock BLACK/ red - driver door module in door, pin 6

Power Unlock lt. blue (double pulse) - driver door module in door, pin 7

The simple answer is either. However, getting to the actual key cylinder isn't exactly easy so I would recomend doing it at the window switch. You need to verify the wires before making a connection, it isn't uncommon to get wire colors wrong. The wires you are looking for are very thin in the harness. The service manual shows that the wires are in fact BLACK/ red and sky blue - they should be in a 16 pin connector. Make sure you test both of these wires with the module plugged in to the car - they should both read 5vdc under normal conditions and should drop to 0vdc when the key cylinder is turned in the appropriate direction.

Kevin Pierson

zenica

Copper - Posts: 116

Joined: August 08, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: April 24, 2009 at 3:35 PM / IP Logged

Wow, this takes a while....

I just found (by DVOM) the lock/unlock. They are red and light blue. Both the red and light blue wires have silver hash lines every inch.

It took more skin than time getting the male and female ends of the wire junction block back together.

At this point, I am ready to begin wiring the alarm...

yahaaaa.

zenica

Copper - Posts: 116

Joined: August 08, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: April 24, 2009 at 3:57 PM / IP Logged

Chris Luongo wrote:

4. Windows control using factory Nissan wires. Yes, as KPierson says, just connect one wire to the lock/arm wire in the door, another to the unlock/disarm..........and run those two wires into the passenger compartment

The DEI 5901 directions state:

Door Lock Harness; 3 pin connector

1: Blue (+) Lock (-) Unlock Output

2: Not Used

3: Green (-) Lock (+) Unlock Output

So does this mean I only use the blue? The OEM wires are standing

on 5v and go to ground when the key is turned.

Chris Luongo wrote:

You'd then connect your Viper's lock and unlock wires respectively, but also splice on some AUX channels from your Viper......but if you make these splices, say, down in the kick panel, it makes future changes/repairs much easier and neater than if you ran a bunch of wires into the door

This is where I am sketchy...in the last 2 alarms (791XV) I installed I used the 530T which made things easier I think. I can scan the directions to PDF so you can see them but I need some direction as to what alarm wire gets tied in to which door lock wire, either the red or the light blue.

Chris Luongo wrote:

5. Violating factory wires. There really aren't that many wires you'll need to connect to anyway. What do we have? Parking lights, brake, trunk, domelight (you can use the car's "domelight supervision" wire as your door trigger), trunk pin, maybe tachometer (but it's under the hood).......and your six main wires at the ignition switch

The most challenging connections will be at the ignition switch. There's very little room to work, the wires are very thick, and you have to make good, reliable connections.

After that, you'll find splicing in the brake and parking light wires to be easy, and almost non-intrusive to the car.

If you really do want to avoid adding wires to the car, look at idatalink products. Their module gives you door trigger, brake.....and a bunch of other things that the competition doesn't. Just go to idatalink.ca, put in your car, and look at the install guides

To me, the ignition wires seem like they will cause the least headache! They are right there, look straight forward and more accessible than say, that damn molex connector for the door.

Chris Luongo wrote:

6. D2D. Don't worry, you're not missing much. I think the marketing department worked very hard on the D2D concept....it's too bad the engineers didn't. It works about half the time, it's poorly supported, and they don't seem to be making too many apologies for it.

I am using the D2D for the XK07. I only wired the CAN hi and lo

using the BCM pins 21 & 22. The other leads it can get from the

D2D. Since I am forgoing the XK02 and 530T, I don't care, so long

as I can unload them via eBay!

I will PayPal you and KPierson some cash for helping me upon completion! I just need a bit of direction, say this green wire to that blue wire and so on, that sort of thing.

KPierson

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Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: April 24, 2009 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged

zenica wrote:

The DEI 5901 directions state:

Door Lock Harness; 3 pin connector

1: Blue (+) Lock (-) Unlock Output

2: Not Used

3: Green (-) Lock (+) Unlock Output

So does this mean I only use the blue? The OEM wires are standing

on 5v and go to ground when the key is turned.

You are using the (-) outputs here so the blue is your unlock output and the green is your lock output.

You still need to check to see how many AUX channels you have total so we can map out just how it has to be hooked up.

For the AUX channels it sounds like you will need three - hatch release, window down, and window up. I'm not sure how many that unit has.

Kevin Pierson

KPierson

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Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: April 24, 2009 at 4:46 PM / IP Logged

Also, keep in mind, you will need to hook up the OEM disarm wire to the unlock wire to the AUX channel output wire. I wouldn't worry about hooking up the factory arm wire, you don't need it.

Kevin Pierson

zenica

Copper - Posts: 116

Joined: August 08, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: April 24, 2009 at 5:12 PM / IP Logged

Where can I look to see how many channels it has?

t&t tech

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Joined: October 05, 2008

Location: Trinidad and Tobago

Posted: April 24, 2009 at 5:15 PM / IP Logged

installation or owner's manual

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

zenica

Copper - Posts: 116

Joined: August 08, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: April 24, 2009 at 5:20 PM / IP Logged

Just my luck.

I called DEI and got the same snot nosed #@!& I got yesterday that told me he can't help me since I am not a dealer.

I barely got him to tell me how many channels it has...

He said it has 4 and that window up (I think it was up and not down) can be tied to window lock so as to take one channel. So we should have enough channels.

What next master.

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: April 24, 2009 at 5:32 PM / IP Logged

Yeah, the installation manual should tell you where the AUX output wires are.

I'm, personally, not a big fan of putting the windows up everytime you lock the car as it eliminates your ability to leave the windows down/cracked. If you have 4 AUX channels on that unit I would use one for window up, one for window down, and one for hatch release. I wouldn't bother with the comfort closure feature, but that will ultimately be your call.

Once you decide what you want to do, you just tie all the wires together at the brain (or in the kick) and run just the two wires in to the doors.

Kevin Pierson

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