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viper 5901 into a 2005 nissan 350z


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zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
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Posted: April 24, 2009 at 6:29 PM / IP Logged  
I am going to grab the tach wire next, just trying to get an idea of how I will get over from the pass side to the drivers side. No matter how I do it, it has to be easier than going through that firewall.
Can you explain this a bit...I took this from the
"Whenever the vehicle is remote started, advanced anti-grind circuitry
prevents the starter from engaging, even if the key is turned to the start position. This prevents damage to the starter motor if the key is turned to the start position during remote start operation.
Note: Anti-grind circuitry only works when the remote start system is
operating the motor and the Failsafe Starter Kill relay is installed"
My 791XV has anti grind and trust me, I did not install any relays!
Here is a passage from the installation booklet:
"Doubleguard shock sensor
Since the shock sensor is built into the main unit, be sure to keep the shock sensor performance in mind when deciding on a location for the main unit. Note: In many vehicles, fastening the main unit (the brain) to a steering column or screwing it to metal will result in poor sensitivity, especially at the rear of the vehicle."
They offer no suggestion as to where is a desirable place to mount it, I would have thought secured to metal such as the firewall would be a good location.
zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
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Posted: April 24, 2009 at 7:14 PM / IP Logged  
I located the trunk release pink wire located at the BCM in pin 31.
It went from ground to 5 volts when the hatch button on the rear of
the vehicle is pressed in releasing the hatch.
The 5901 states:
Primary harness (H1)
H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
Warning! Never use this wire to drive anything but
a relay or a low-current input! The transistorized output
can only supply 200mA of current. Connecting
directly to a solenoid, motor, or other high-current
device will cause it to fail.
So do I connect this to the BCM pin 31 pink wire or not?
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: April 24, 2009 at 7:21 PM / IP Logged  

[QUOTE=zenica]

"Whenever the vehicle is remote started, advanced anti-grind circuitry
prevents the starter from engaging, even if the key is turned to the start position. This prevents damage to the starter motor if the key is turned to the start position during remote start operation.
Note: Anti-grind circuitry only works when the remote start system is
operating the motor and the Failsafe Starter Kill relay is installed"
My 791XV has anti grind and trust me, I did not install any relays,

/QUOTE]

once you install the xcrs that comes with the 791xv and cut the starter wire, and connect green to key side and purple to starter, anti-grind is automatically in effect unless programmed off, so the same applies for the new 5901 only difference is the relays are onboard, so just wire as per the instructions and you should be good

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: April 24, 2009 at 7:25 PM / IP Logged  

Here is a passage from the installation booklet:

"Doubleguard shock sensor
Since the shock sensor is built into the main unit, be sure to keep the shock sensor performance in mind when deciding on a location for the main unit. Note: In many vehicles, fastening the main unit (the brain) to a steering column or screwing it to metal will result in poor sensitivity, especially at the rear of the vehicle."
They offer no suggestion as to where is a desirable place to mount it, I would have thought secured to metal such as the firewall would be a good location.

tie wrapping the sensor to a large wire harness in the vehicle under dash somewhere works great, no solid mounting areas as the sensor works poorly, unless the surface is plastic like an air duct for example.

[/QUOTE]

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 24, 2009 at 7:35 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks T&T...
Any thoughts to the trunk/hatch release wire?
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: April 24, 2009 at 7:43 PM / IP Logged  

no, i'm not sure about the hatch, kevin might be able to help there, sorry

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
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Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: April 24, 2009 at 8:03 PM / IP Logged  

If you don't have the service manual for the car you can download it for free here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2005/

According to page 30 of the bl.pdf file the rear door switch rests at 5vdc and goes to ground when the button is pushed (assuming the doors are unlocked). 

Grounding this pink wire at the BCM should cause the rear hatch to open.

Kevin Pierson
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: April 24, 2009 at 8:19 PM / IP Logged  
kevin i was thinking the same thing,  but then he said it went from ground to five volts not the other way around, if it is however the other way around, the you could try shorting the wire to a ground fused at one amp just to be sure to see if it pops. post back with ur results
commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
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Posted: April 24, 2009 at 9:08 PM / IP Logged  
I'll try to throw in a few comments here quickly, as I'm about to head out for the night.
1. Shock sensor: I've never been very good at shock sensors. But I would say to firmly attach that brain to something....don't just leave it flapping around.
If it becomes a major issue, you can still plug in a regular-style DEI (or other brand) shock sensor, and I don't think they'd cost much.
2. Where to splice inside the door: You may have noticed that the window switch just pops right out. I like to make the connection there....if it should fail and need to be respliced, you don't have to take the door apart again.
3. Antigrind: They make a big story about it in the manual, but it goes like this. You're going to cut the car's starter wire in half, and hook the two halves to the purple and green wires from the 5901.....right?
So that gives you your starter kill to make the car harder to steal.
In short, the system also turns on the starter kill during remote start, so you can't grind the starter.
(You can also turn that feature off in programming, if desiRED / needed.)
4. Running wire to passenger's underdash: Since it's a rear-wheel-drive car, you've of course got that transmission hump going down the middle.
But pretty much, route your tach wire over to the gas pedal area (in such a way that it can't fall on your feet, even if a zip tie breaks)......then shove a bunch of the wire off to the right behind the carpet.
If you have any luck, the wire will already be partially coming out the other side.
If that doesn't work, try taping the wire to an old car antenna or coat hanger to fish it through.
NOTE: I don't want to doubt KPieroson, but I was only successful at finding that inside-the-car tach wire once, on an Altima.
Maybe do the rest of the install, then just run the wire over the top of the console, make a temporary connection, and make sure it works before running the wire neatly.
zenica 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 24, 2009 at 9:56 PM / IP Logged  
Ha, you guys are great!
I am double checking the rear hatch release but the BCM pin that was suggested is resting at 5v and goes to ground when the hatch release is pressed.
I will check every connection in that wire pack for one that rests at 5v and goes to ground when the hatch release is pressed.
I'll get a stand alone shock sensor if it becomes an issue.
Would I still have anti grind without a tach signal? I will probably take what ever steps to get that tach signal, but I am curious none the less.
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