are my connections good for big 3

Glad I could be of assistance.  It just so happens that at almost 51 years old, the majority of my automotive experience has been under the hood.  Sure, I'd done tranny work, rear ends, brakes, clutches, wiring and lots of underdash stuff.  But most of my time my head has been under hoods, and ironically it's been mosty Fords.  Like I said earlier, since my first car as a teen, only a few have not been Fords.  So I've seen my share of Ford grounds.  Now if you had a Dodge truck or something, I'd have to call my best friend and see what he thought.  So if you ever have any other questions about your F150, feel free to ask.  If I can give you an honest answer, I will.  You're doing great.  Keep it up.  And yes, that seat belt ground should be good.  Myself, I would make a new ground hole, but hey, it will work. 

What are you mounting your amp to?  The sub box?  Good.  As long as you are not going to just lay it or bolt it to the bare floor.  If you're going to mount it on the floor, you MUST put rubber grommets between each screw hole so the body of the amp doesn't touch the metal.  Or you can mount it on a piece of wood, then screw the wood down.  But if you mount the amp to metal, you'll run the risk of getting a ground loop and you'll hear it in your speakers.

Keep us posted.  And good luck with the system!

When I did my Introduction in this forum, you might notice I didn't say I was an MECP-Certified Installer with 20 years experience.  I only mentioned that I've been messing with car audio since the 70's when I was in my late teens.  Not once have I ever had a ground loop issue, have never fried a single thing, and only had that famous "alternator whine" a few times with my cheap "toss it under the seat and call it good" systems in the early years.  And I'm certainly not going to make any attempts to prove anyone else wrong here in the forum.  In fact, after this, maybe it's best if I just leave my advice to myself and let the "experts" solve everyone else's issues.  It would save me from having people disagree with things I suggest.  You might also notice I've not once posted comments about anyone's systems where the amps are just tossed on the sub box with wires exposed all over the place.  I'll admire their brand choices, but would never cut them down or tell them they did something wrong.  Which was the case here.  I did my best to help someone with an issue I am familiar with: Ford's ground wires.

We still cool?

Now this ground is to the frame of my truck on the floor. This isn't good? The terminal is under the flat piece of metal where the the metal is brushed and "Shiny". 

I wouldn't ground it there either...if anything remove the pillar and ground your amp under the those panels.  It'll look a lot cleaner and should result in a better ground for you once you remove the paint and get to bare metal. 

I agree with haemphyst with mounting the amp to bare metal...not only will "electrically be the same" but it can also increase your heatsink so to speak.  The heat that is produced from the amp can be transferred to the mounting location, and in climates where your amp is already hot from sitting in a hot car all day, the ability to transfer some of that heat can keep your amp from shutting off or going into protect mode to cool itself off.  Yao Ming?!!!    

I realize I might not be taken seriously by some folks, so rather than state my opinion about grounding and mounting, let me go ahead and copy something from the Crutchfield Guidebook Series #000CAR; Advanced Car Stereo Installations and Problem Solving, page 23, Installation Steps to Avoid Noise In Multi-Component Systems. This was sent to me from Crutchfield several years ago, and is only one of the many sources I've gathered valuable information from.  Others have included magazines such as Car Audio & Electronics, Car Stereo Review, and many others.  I've actually saved technical articles from car audio magazines for many years, and have a notebook full of important and valuable information.  I don't just make this stuff up.  So anyway, this is what page 23 says in the Crutchfied Guidebook:

1. Mounting: Make sure that none of your components are mounted directly to steel/metal.  A lot of components have their internal grounds mounted to the chassis of the component. Mounting a component like this to steel/metal, and then connecting its ground wire, will result in a loop.  It is best to mount all of your components on a nonconductive (wood) mounting rack.

2. Distinguish Between Signal Ground and Power Ground: There are two different grounds. The signal path ground is in part a sheild, meant to protect the signals traveling along the inner wire from noise. The power grounds provide the ground paths which allow the various amplifiers within the system to operate. The signal ground can be considered more delicate than the power ground, and it is for this reason that you do not ground the two of them together.

3. The Power Ground: The power ground coming out of the amplifers should be as short as possible. Contrary to popular belief, it is not best to run a return ground lead all the way to the battery. If you are using mulitple amplifiers, it is best to connect all of the grounds to the same area with about 1/2 inch seperating each of them. The metal should be free of paint and grease. The grounds should be secured using bolts/screws with star washers.

4. The Signal Ground: All signal grounds should be connected to the back of the receiver's chassis. The chassis should then be grounded to a ground with either 1/2 inch braided ground strap, or with multi-strand #10 wire. Run this ground to the firewall, or to the heaviest piece of steel/metal you can find. All signal grounds normally are carried through the braided shielding (barrel side) of RCA connector, so running multiple ground wires back to the head unit is not normally necessary. You can test the signal ground with an ohmmeter. Check for continuity between the barrel side of the input RCA jack and the ground lead of the component. If there is continuity, try running that component first with its ground lead disconnected, and check the unit's operation. If the unit does not work, run the ground lead from that component back up to the indash receiver. However, if there is continuity, attach component's ground lead with the amplifier grounds.

So, there you have it, steps on how to avoid noise in mulit-component systems, strait from the mouths of Crutchfield, a leading source in the mail-order electronics industry.  If you don't agree with any of it, their phone number is easily found online and I'm sure they would love to hear that they are wrong.  But I don't.  I don't make stuff up that I post.  I get it from many reliable sources, and have collected this information for many years.

Hope this helps. This will be my last addition to this thread.  Good luck, dude!  You're getting there!  I'm anxious to read where you post that it all worked out and your system is noise-free and slammin' hard core!

Alright now here are some places for ground that I hahve seen in other forums. But this is actually my Truck.

GROUND #1 (onto one of the 2 Black Bolts on the metal bracket)

GROUND #2 (the gray metal bolt next to the seatbelt Bracket. with the paint scratched away)

GROUND #3 (where the jack bolts to the cab of my the truck) Both pictures same area

And Also I have had problems with amplifiers going into protect mode when mounted onto the bare metal where my ground is. Just though I would throw that out there.

So are these any good areas?