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pop when music turned on/off


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t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
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Posted: May 04, 2009 at 4:35 PM / IP Logged  

(Customer quote)---- "pioneer head unit,power acoustik 300watts amplifier, running a pair of jensens eight inch full range speakers" hooked up in his home via a 12 volt adapter, he says he gets a pop any time the music is turned on and off, what suggetions do u guys have to help him get rid off this pop, if there is a way, thanks in advance.

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
i am an idiot 
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Posted: May 04, 2009 at 4:42 PM / IP Logged  
Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: May 04, 2009 at 4:46 PM / IP Logged  

Turn on thump

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,669
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Posted: May 04, 2009 at 4:51 PM / IP Logged  

When you say turns music on or off, are you talking about when the volume is turned from 0 to 1 and from 1 to 0.  If so read my earlier post.  If it does this when turning power on and off on the radio, then you have a turn on and turn off pop.  My solution will not help that .  But my money is on the volume from 0 to 1. and 1 to 0

t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
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Posted: May 04, 2009 at 5:54 PM / IP Logged  
thanks a million guys, i'll let y'all know how it turns out.
commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
kenwood_nut 
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Joined: April 10, 2009
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Posted: May 04, 2009 at 8:02 PM / IP Logged  

This is something someone asked me today if I think I'm going to have a problem with.  Since my amps are not in just yet, I'm not sure.  But in the past, I have not seemed to run into this issue.  Something I learned many years ago is the importance of running your head unit's turn-on lead into a relay if turning on more than one component (amp, crossover, etc), which I've done for several years. However, this go-round I'm running 3 amps and a crossover. My "goofy, unheard of" plan this time is to run my head unit's turn-on lead to the usual relay, but this time I'm going to run the relay to a distribution block. From the distribution block, each of the 4 wires will power a seperate component on the amp rack: each of 3 amps plus crossover.  I don't doubt that this configuration will be a success, but what I'm wondering is if I will get that turn-on/turn-off thump.  I'm hoping not.  As mentioned, I've never had it in pass systems, and even had 3 amps in other cars plus in underdash passive EQ.  I'm hoping that my current configuration will help to avoid the turn-on thump.  If not, oh well.  I'll be happy to get the desired effect out of my "wierd" idea: to not burn out my deck's turn-on circuit by powering up 4 items when I power it up.  I know this problem will be solved, but now you folks have me worried about thump.  Someone else got me wondering too.  Now I guess all I can do is find out.

Do some configurations produce that famous thump?  Or is it caused more by connections or improper installations? 

Will let you all know.  And believe me, I'm getting real close to putting the amp rack in and hooking it all up!  Just finishing up the last-minute wiring on it, then will lay it in the trunk and hook up the speaker cables and RCA and power/grounds, etc.

I had these plaques made and will (maybe) mount them next to each distribution block, if not on the underside of the trunk lid.  More for looks and to make myself cool.

pop when music turned on/off -- posted image.

i am an idiot 
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Posted: May 04, 2009 at 8:14 PM / IP Logged  
Killing the turn on wire of an amplifier should not cause any problems.  Amplifiers are designed to kill output instantly when remote power is removed.  When remote power is reapplied, there is a turn on delay of a second or so.  This delay allows the output from the radio to settle down before the amp begins to produce sound.
mikecole89 
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Posted: May 06, 2009 at 12:12 AM / IP Logged  

if running more then one amp you can just run the remote from the head unit to one amp then loop to the other amps.

kenwood_nut 
Stock Boy - Posts: 227
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Posted: May 06, 2009 at 7:30 AM / IP Logged  
mikecole89 wrote:

if running more then one amp you can just run the remote from the head unit to one amp then loop to the other amps.

Well, I must admit, this is the first time in over 30 years I've heard of this.  All the pros say to use a relay.  Even the MECP Study Guide says use a relay.  I've always used relays.  Although your idea sounds like it might work in theory, I certainly wouldn't trust doing it.  If that was the case, we could all just run 1 power and 1 ground to 1 amp and loop all the rest.  I think I'll pass on this idea, but if anyone else wants to try it more power to them (no pun intended).  I've used a relay to turn on amps for over 20+ years.  Hey, they're cheap and easy to hook up, and their operation is straightforward and reliable.

haemphyst 
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Joined: January 19, 2003
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Posted: May 06, 2009 at 11:45 AM / IP Logged  
Relays are COMPLETLY unnecessary, unless you are connecting more devices than the output lead can control. (That's what a relay is for - to use a low-current signal to control a high-current signal.) If the case is that you are trying to turn on too many devices, none of the items will turn on; but you cannot blow a remote lead in ANY decently designed deck, today - the outputs will be current limited, and short-circuit protected.
I am using an IVA-W205 in my dash, and I am controlling three amps, two signal processors, and one relay for the lights. (Yeah, the lights... Suffice to say there's an additional relay in there...)
Just 'cause a book says to use something, that DOESN'T mean it's the gospel. The MECP was written FAR to long ago, to be completely accurate today. I have been installing since about '91, and the MECP I saw just recently had hardly changed since that time... Hell, it's the same cover, for Pete's sake.
Me? I'm a fan of simplicity... (Shyah, right...) The fewer parts there are, the less there is to go wrong later. This is a mathematical certainty. It's not IF that relay fails, but WHEN. They are reliable, but why add that point of failure? One point of failure is FAR easier to diagnose than two. While it is not wrong to use a relay, it is certainly not a necessity. That's all I'm saying. Most remote leads today will more than safely support 500mA, easily. That's plenty to turn on a few external transistors. Most remote turn-ons are in the 20-50mA range.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
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