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relay diagram planning advice needed


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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: June 13, 2009 at 4:41 PM / IP Logged  
Yes but 30amp fuse for EACH RELAY , i.e. ACC, IGN and START.  The diodes are placed across 85 and 86 with the bands towards 85 the way you are wiring this, you've actually reversed the convention, 85 should be the ground side of the coil but it don't matter in practice as long as you consistantly do the same thing. Try getting hold of an old Mini flick  lighting switch for your needs, first pos gives you ACC, second ACC and IGN at the same time. What car is this going in to?
defnu 
Member - Posts: 15
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Location: California, United States
Posted: June 13, 2009 at 5:15 PM / IP Logged  

yeah, i'm having trouble finding a single switch that does this for me.

here's a link to my build thread http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2261397.  ignore the dates, lol. our economy is effecting me hard too! lol.  the car is a 1988 honda crx (ef7)

thanks for the diode and relay information. 

hello.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: June 14, 2009 at 3:42 AM / IP Logged  
OK, so no transponders to worry about, now you've got to get rid of the steering lock. Got any vehicle dismantlers near you (wreckers yards, whatever you call them in the US)? Do some removals from the fuse boxes!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: June 14, 2009 at 4:10 AM / IP Logged  

That circuit is wrong,  sorry I'm baby sitting my 9 and 11 year old grandchildren and I haven't had time to look properly.

Your white black and white battery feeds should be fused somewhere, either at the battery or the engine bay fusebox adjacent to the engine bay rear bulkhead. These  factory fuses should be at least 30 amps each.

Now this:- Ground to first combi switch, first position,  thin black cable to 85 and WHITE/ black from battery to 86 and 30, output to WHITE/ red from 87.

Second position, thin black to 85 on three relays, white batt to 86 and 30 and ouputs (87) to BLACK / YELLOW, blue /white and yellow.

Starter button thin black to ground, output to another relay, 85 again, battery white to 86 and 30, BLACK/ white starter output from 87. This will put much less current on your switches.

Now here's the important part:- Before you start, some of these circuits e.g.   ACC, and blue/white , will power down during the start (AKA cranking)  cycle. Check.  You will need a small 3 or 4 (you will probably only get a 4 pole) relay or 3 small case low currrent (under 5 amps). Output from starter switch to relay(s) 85, white ignition to 86, those thin blacks to the acc and 2 ignitions, NOT BLACK/ yellow  or yellow in to 30 and out to 87. This will dump them during the start cycle. VERY IMPORTANT. Diodes please across every relay, between 85 and 86 diode bands towards 86.

defnu 
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Posted: June 16, 2009 at 6:45 PM / IP Logged  
sorry for such a late response to my own thread, i will be reading this after this post just to let any readers know this is still a live thread.
hello.
defnu 
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Joined: June 12, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: June 16, 2009 at 6:47 PM / IP Logged  
defnu wrote:

relay diagram planning advice needed - Page 2 -- posted image.

  *quoting for same page reference
hello.
defnu 
Member - Posts: 15
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Joined: June 12, 2009
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Posted: June 16, 2009 at 6:50 PM / IP Logged  
defnu wrote:

relay diagram planning advice needed - Page 2 -- posted image.

hopefully this will work. thanks for the conformation. 

i'm also in the market for a single toggle switch that can handle both "ACC" and "ON."  i'm just not sure what the tabs for wire mounting would look like.  would this switch be called a dpdt?

also, what websites are good for relays and switches? i'm in elk grove california and there is not anything local with a reasonable price.  the only thing radioshack had in stock were spst relays for $7.00 plus tax (CAlifornia) a piece!? i remember getting them for less than $5 from autozone and those came with pigtail harness' for the relay AND were spdt!

  *quoting for same page reference
hello.
defnu 
Member - Posts: 15
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Joined: June 12, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: June 16, 2009 at 7:21 PM / IP Logged  

so this circuit would not work if i want the previous switches to shut off when the starter button is pushed down?  i wanted to replicate the oem action with the ignition switch using the two toggle switches and a single push start switch.

so far, what i'm reading from your reply is to reverse my grounds on the relays to 85 and place the diodes on each relay?

all of the wires i'm working with already has an oem location for the fuses.

hello.
defnu 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: June 12, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: June 17, 2009 at 11:42 PM / IP Logged  
if someone can draw it up the right way for me, i'll paypal them $10.00.  thanks again.
hello.
dualsport 
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Joined: September 27, 2005
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Posted: June 18, 2009 at 8:28 AM / IP Logged  
You might not want to permanently connect the WHT/BLK and BLU/WHT wires as you show in your diagram. Without having them separated by relays, you can't open them up as required for the OFF position.
You can run set it up so that the upper left relay connects the WHT/BLK to WHT/RED in ACC or ON position, and the next relay connects WHT/BLK to BLU/WHT when in ON position. (Don't connect WHT/BLK and BLU/WHT as you were planning)
Use diodes to isolate the feeds into the relay controls so they energize only when needed:
RELAY #1 would be connected to the ACC control, and #2 connected to the ON switch control, but add a diode between the two relay coil inputs with the stripe towards relay #1, so that the ON control will turn on both relays, but the ACC control will only turn on the first relay, with the diode blocking the second one from coming on.
You can work out something similar for the other connections.
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