f 350 diesel severe interference

okay, i will do that. i am amazed at how helpful you all seem to be! very impressed :) idiot, ill send you the 10 bucks anyways if you give me ur pay pal. so Saturday is my last chance to get this problem figured out. i've done a great job on the rest of this guy's truck. lets see... its an 01' and he bought all this 05' Lariat interior, heated seats, overhead console, vanity mirrors, power sliding rear window, then i installed... clifford 50.7x alarm, 4 PIAA off road lights on the roof hooked to flash when the alarm goes off and controlled by a custom switch panel on the dash, 1000 watt power inverter and the sound system i mentioned earlier, kill switch.... what else... factory backup camera i haven't installed yet.. all for about $1,500. how much would you guys charge for that? and hes upset about the interference... he says Saturday is the last day before he has it towed (because he thinks it will go up in flames...) and fixed by someone else. idiot, would it be too much to ask to actually call you and have you help me diagnose if you're not busy on saturday, what do you do anyways? i'll be more than happy to pay you for your time.

the remote wire is the power wire for the rear sliding window... i guess i cut a corner there... the inverter is controlled by a switch on the dash and has its own power wire run directly to the battery. when i removed the radio fuse from the vehicle's fuse box (5A - isn't this a bit small?)and/or the back of the HU the buzzing remained. i would get you those readings but i cant until saturday.

Temporarily connect the remote terminal to the power wire of the amp.  Or to the positive connection of the capacitor.  I know this will make your amps remain on.  This is just temporary to see if the remote wire is picking up the noise.  Start the vehicle and see if the noise is still there.  Is there any reason that you did not use the Radio's amp turn on wire to turn the amps on? 

just to have one less wire running down the sides. it seemed pretty convenient to just tap that wire which is controlled by a relay connected directly to the ACC wire.

So i just got a text from him, i guess we are rescheduling. but while im waiting i have another quick question. he wants a blinking led on each of the 4 doors by the locks and he wants them to blink with the alarm's led. i've tapped into the pink wire(if i remember correctly) running from the brain to the vallet/antenna switch. what voltage leds and resistors do i need to get to make this possible? we would like the LED's to be around 2-3,000mcd. the supply voltage from the alarm's led is about 3.5vdc. i tried using those led calculator things but they say the supply voltage is too low although i know this is possible. any suggestions?

I have no idea what kind of drive circuit the alarm is using for the LEDs.  Adding one to the mix would probably be OK.  It is just like adding speakers to an amp, adding 4 extra speakers in parallel is probably not a good idea.  If you can take the alarm brain apart and follow the trace from the LED pin to the next component in line and let me know what that next component is, a transistor or an integrated circuit.  Either way let me know the number of the component.    Depending on the component we may be able to connect the extra LEDs, or we may have to add a transistor to handle the extra current.  But either way we should be able to do it.Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB