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doorlock problems on viper 560xv


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t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,610
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Posted: June 30, 2009 at 4:36 PM / IP Logged  
If you think the alarm is at fault then here's a simple test, on the diagram i gave you above where the alarm's lock and unlock inputs are labelled, in your truck, mometarily ground these wires one at a time if the actuators move them your alarm is at fault (which i highly doubt but anyway), if they don't your problem lies elsewhere. Do you have a meter?
commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
downsouthplaya 
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Posted: June 30, 2009 at 4:48 PM / IP Logged  

yes I have a meter. I don't think the alarm is the problem because if it were it wouldn't work at all (my guess). This is bizarre...i'm 100% sure I installed the alarm correctly, with the remote start inoperable its just starter kill, constant 12v, accessory (switch), parking lights and the door triggers...very simple alarm, very simple install...

downsouthplaya 
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Location: Florida, United States
Posted: June 30, 2009 at 6:27 PM / IP Logged  

UPDATE: I went into the garage and looked at the relay, I tightsed down some of the connectors and the lock function works and I here the click in the relay. However, the unlock does not work and there is no clock at the ray.

I did T&T's test and the door locks did not work at all. Any suggestions?

t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,610
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Posted: July 01, 2009 at 6:40 AM / IP Logged  
take your meter and verify all the pins at the relays are recieving the proper signals!
commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: July 01, 2009 at 11:12 AM / IP Logged  
if one relay works and the other doesn't then you must have it wired wrong. both relays should be wired exactly the same with one relay activated by the lock wire and the other activated by the unlock wire. if the relay has an internal diode then you might need to switch the wires to pin 85 and 86 on the relay that wont click.
normally it doesn't matter the way you supply power to 85 and 86 because if either one has power and ground it will activate regardless. but if you bought negative spike relays, and wired them exactly like the diagram it would cause one side to not work.
downsouthplaya 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: March 16, 2004
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 02, 2009 at 4:59 PM / IP Logged  

niether the relay or alarm were wired wrong. The alarm is defective. The unlock wire didn't throw a signal at all.

I ended up tearing the Viper560XV out and replacing it with a sidewinder 3000-something, a viper product. I went with a simple alarm with a starter kill and doorlocks due to my truck being carbed with a big motor.

New alarm is installed and doorlocks work as they should. First time I have ever seen a defective Viper product.

soundnsecurity 
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Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Posted: July 02, 2009 at 7:35 PM / IP Logged  
awesome.
downsouthplaya 
Member - Posts: 38
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Joined: March 16, 2004
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: August 14, 2009 at 10:59 AM / IP Logged  

soundnsecurity wrote:
yeah, you definitely need spdt relays not the spst relays you are using now.
adding a switch shouldnt be hard either you just need a rocker switch that can send a ground through the same lock/unlock wires as your alarm. remember to diode isolate them from the alarm wires. diodes go on the lock/unlock wires coming from the alarm and the stripe goes towards the alarm

I bought the standard GM lock/unlock switches. I currently have the reverse polarity relays wired in and they work great. To install these switch and make them function I just need to diode the lock/unlock wires going into the alarm output or to the actuators?

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: August 14, 2009 at 12:19 PM / IP Logged  
You actually blew the unlock signal wire from the Viper when you first wired it. You should have made green the lock trigger and blue the unlock THEN placed diodes along them to protect the alarm side from relay onrush. The relay backfeed would have blown the very fragile circuitry in the alarm, it's only a chip based TTL output. you should have purchased a 451, it would have saved you a lot of trouible, then read the 561R post here, see where Chris Luongo explains how to wire a control switch.
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,610
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Posted: August 14, 2009 at 5:53 PM / IP Logged  

it depends on how the switch you purchased functions! how many wires does the switch have!

P.S With all due respect to the playa, i'm with howard on you frying that output of the lock circuit! i say this because i've installed dei units for about four years and more now and of all the units i have installed i have never had a blown lock output! It doesn't mean it doesn't happen, but the odds are less than likely!

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