compustar p1bam s and pats bypass

I just bought a Compustar P1BAM-S unit on ebay.  I just needed a cheap remote starter, and this one fit the bill.  I don't know what brain it has in it (I have not received it yet).  My question is:

I have a 1998 Ford Explorer.  I believe these have the PATS system?  What bypass module do I need?  I'd like to get one that I can program so I don't have to give up a key.  Are these things pretty universal?  (I.e. can I use most any bypass with most any remote start?)

To be specific, can I pick up a DEI 555f and use it with my compustar?

TIA, John

Thanks spookiestylz.  I just picked up a 555f on ebay for $10.  I'll post back in a week or so after my install in case anyone with a 98 explorer is reading this in the future.

John

Install is complete.  It took most of the day (about 6 hours in all), but I worked slowly and methodically.  I hooked up all the wires temporarily to make sure it was right.  Once I verified I had the right wires and everything worked, I secured the wires and routed everything under the dash.  I used the quick splices and t-taps.  Both were pretty bad.  I had to remove and reconnect several times to make a good contact.  I called the tech suport at compustar and they were really nice.  When I told the guy I was using quick splices, he shuddered and said they were horrible.  At first, it would only unlock the car.  Nothing else.  Turns out the splice on the lock wire was loose and I had the wrong ignition wire.  Oops.  That's why I hooked everything up in a temp. fashion before I tightened it up.

Anyway,  here are a couple of things in case someone is doing something similar.  For the tach wire, I thought it would be hard to tap into the 48 pin on the PCM.  That area is tight.  I tried several wires on the coil and injectors, but the unit would not tach sense with them.  It may have been user error, but i just could not get it to work.  So I found someone who says the wire is accessible on a 48-pin(?) square connector on the top of the engine.  I opened the protective plastic cap on the only big connector on top of the engine, found the tan / YELLOW wire, and tapped into it there.  Worked first time.  here's a pic

Also, one of the wiring diagrams I had had the accessory wire labeled wrong.  When I  used another wiring diagram it had the correct one.  Sorry, I can't remember the colors.  Also, I only hooked up one accessory wire (I think there are 2).  So when the car starts, the AC/blower turn on, but the radio does not.  No big deal, it's the HVAC system that I care about.

I used the 555f as mentioned above.  It was cheap (about $15) and works well.  To program it, I held it about 1 inch from the keyhole.  Right about where the chip would be if there was a key in the ignition.  I mounted it on the top of the sensor ring that goes around the igition.  If you are sitting in the passenger seat looking at the keyhole in the ignition, the sensor is at about 11:00.  Hope that makes sense.  It worked the 2nd time.  I the first time I had it a bit lower and it did not start (PATS). 

Also, I used the FD-1 connector for the ignition harness (from bulldog).  they don't make these anymore, so they are hard to find.  Really, it's not a big deal.  It is used for like 5 or 6 wires and these are the easiest wires to find and tap into.  Not a big time saver, and not super cheap (at ~$27.00).

The unit works great.  I haven't tested the range much, but it works from about 250 feet through a THICK window at work. 

another try with the pic of the location of the 48-pin connector for the tach wire.  you can kinda see it int he red circle.