2009 altima, viper 5701

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mike253

Member - Posts: 8

Joined: May 31, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: July 23, 2009 at 10:46 PM / IP Logged

Recently *attempted* to get a 5701 installed in my 2009 Altima. I've been back twice (total of 14 hours they've had my car) and the installed can't get the remote start working. He cannot find the starter wire.. Here are the details:

2009 Nissan Altima 2.5s, non-Bose factory stereo

CVT transmission

DLPK bypass module

A wiring diagram would be great (or at least which wires to grab and where to grab them for the starter)

I really don't want to have to go back a fourth time.. getting old quick.

Thanks for the help!

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: July 23, 2009 at 11:14 PM / IP Logged

These cars are complex, but well documented both in the install guides and online. And it's the same vehicle in its third model year.....if your installer still hasn't figured these cars out, I'd be nervous.

I haven't used a DLPK, but it appears to be simply a rebadged Fortin CAN-SL2i, one of the most popular modules used on these cars.

The first Google hit I got for "dlpk" brought me to the bypasskit.com site, and then from there you can click for install manuals:

http://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=1005

profuse007

Gold - Posts: 2,015

Joined: October 20, 2002

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: July 23, 2009 at 11:19 PM / IP Logged

http://www.idatalink.com/installguide.php

look on page 6 to wire up the starter wire. the starter wire isn't its typical location, it's actually under the hood.

it would help if you let your installer know about this site. once an installer gets frustrated and tinkering here and there, that's when your car gets screwed up.

Houston,TX

"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

mike253

Member - Posts: 8

Joined: May 31, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: July 23, 2009 at 11:27 PM / IP Logged

Chris,

The quick reply is greatly appreciated! Installer claimed that the suggested start wires did not test (-) during the ignition process, I'm unsure if he actually tried the connections with the unit or just hit them with a meter.

He mentioned needing 2 start wires more than once, I'm going to give this one more shot before I cut my losses and go to another dealer.. any suggestions to make the final attempt a successful one?

yimke

Copper - Posts: 417

Joined: June 23, 2009

Location: Nebraska, United States

Posted: July 24, 2009 at 11:10 AM / IP Logged

They should test + not negative during start. We just got the DLPK in a couple weeks ago, but have not had a chance to use it yet. It looks pretty straight forward though.

If I remember right, on Nissan's with this bypass you have to isolate the security light, but i don't think that will prevent it from firing.

Oh nvm I found the manual, this has pictures and step by step process. If he can't figure it out with this, he's probably inexperienced.

http://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=1005

If he has questions he should give directed electronics a call. But prepare to wait on hold for about half an hour.

robertsc

Copper - Posts: 337

Joined: December 21, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: July 24, 2009 at 4:45 PM / IP Logged

I would run while you getting good ,then find a place that has a good reputation.

Mark Mizenko

Copper - Posts: 460

Joined: October 13, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 11:17 AM / IP Logged

I would find another shop. This is a 2-3 hour vehicle for a slower installer. It is documented VERY WELL. If your shop spent 14 hours and they still dont know what to do... like suggested.... RUN, dont walk to another shop.

yimke

Copper - Posts: 417

Joined: June 23, 2009

Location: Nebraska, United States

Posted: July 25, 2009 at 6:17 PM / IP Logged

Mark Mizenko wrote:

Depends on if you use t-taps or not. This would be an average car. Quality not quantity.

Mark Mizenko

Copper - Posts: 460

Joined: October 13, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: July 27, 2009 at 3:00 PM / IP Logged

Big no on the T-Taps.

mike swanson

Copper - Posts: 290

Joined: January 28, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: July 27, 2009 at 5:24 PM / IP Logged

Give the shop a chance to fix it. You guys cant say you have never had a prob like this b4.

The tech could be very good, but has a bad bypass or main unit or cold solder.

Make sure he uses the Can sl2 or newer

off the top of my head

The start wire is + and is under the hood on driver side by fuse block

Is this a PUSH START?

We have done many push starts and had 1 car that wouldnt start. We found that the - out while run was not working.Could be a bad unit

Make sure he test the - while run to start the car.

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