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07 dodge nitro remote start problems


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tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: September 27, 2009 at 2:17 PM / IP Logged  
I'm installing a Compustar CM5200 with a Idatalink ADS DLSL CH3 bypass.. I wired it as such:
Connector 1 (CN1), 8-Pin
1: ( + ) Red - Constant 12V positive (+) power input. – Connect to Red in Drivers Kick or IGN Harness
2: ( + ) GREEN / WHITE positive (+) parking light - Connect to WHITE/ Violet in Large harness low in Drivers Kick
3: ( + ) RED / White - Constant 12V positive (+) power input. - Connect to Red in Drivers Kick or IGN Harness
7: ( + ) Green – Ignition 12V positive (+) output and input. - Connect to Pink/White in IGN Harness
8: ( - ) Black - Ground negative (-) input. - Connect to Ground
CN3 - 18 Wire Connector
Pin 15 White [POC 8] - Horn honk 250mA negative (-) output. - Connect to Dark Green / Violet at Steering Column
ADS-DLSL CH3 - Connected to remote starter via RS232..
Yellow - Multiplex Output - Connects to PURPLE / Brown Multiplex Wire at IGN
BROWN / Red - CANH - Connects to Pin 6 @ Immobilizer
BROWN / Yellow - CANL - Connects to Pin 7 @ Immobilizer
Pink - Ignition Input - Connects to Pink/White @ IGN
I got everything hooked up and then programmed the bypass (successfully)..
First issue is the locks don't work.. I hear the brain clicking and the parking lights flash but the locks don't lock / unlock. The bypass is supposed to control these so no wires were hooked up.
Second issue is it won't accept the tach.. Bypass is also supposed to handle this so no wire was hooked up.. Compustar won't remote start until a tach is programmed and when I do the programming it says it's invalid..
It's almost like the bypass isn't controlling anything (locks, tach, etc)..
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Steven Kephart 
Platinum - Posts: 1,737
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: September 27, 2009 at 2:47 PM / IP Logged  
You have to hook up the tach and door lock wires from the alarm brain to the corresponding input wires on the ADS-DLSL CH3 module. If you read the modules installation instructions it tells you which one's they are.
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: September 27, 2009 at 3:04 PM / IP Logged  
According to the manual if you use Idatalink (RS232) connection you don't have to?
07 dodge nitro remote start problems -- posted image.
jim hunter 
Silver - Posts: 351
Silver spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 27, 2009 at 11:27 PM / IP Logged  
quite possibly your remotes start datlink connection is not sending the information,or its not accepted by idatalnk, i would remove the d2d harness and direct wire these inputs, and you will have to prograsm the tach in your remote start programs, i have had some irregular glitches using d2d harness so i always hardwire just to avoid a repair from improper communications
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: October 22, 2009 at 7:47 PM / IP Logged  
I just tried direct wiring and bypassing the D2D and I still can't get nothing. :(
No lock, no unlock, etc.. The remote start clicks when I do the lock / unlock and the parking lights flash but nothing happens with the doors!
The bypass goes solid green and then goes out when I connect it which says it's programmed correctly..
Help!!
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,666
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: October 22, 2009 at 8:08 PM / IP Logged  
i am an idiot wrote:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~115099~KW~http%3A%2F%2Fbypassevolution.com%2F~PN~0~TPN~1#558337
Yea, that bypass is sweet but I really don't want to spend an additional $80 when I have what SHOULD work now..
racing_bidule 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 13, 2007
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: October 22, 2009 at 8:23 PM / IP Logged  

Something went wrong in your module programming.

This vehicle works with CH3 since the vehicle exists.

Did you got the led to start blinking Green when you turned the ignition ON during programming?

Are you sure you select the good install method Data/Hadwired?

Did the LED started to blink Green when ignition was turned ON

If no Green flashes, test ignition and test the CAN wires of the vehicle

Can Low should be around .1.5 Volts

Can High should be around 3.5

If you fail on your first attempt, at least destroy all evidence you tried!
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: October 22, 2009 at 8:29 PM / IP Logged  
racing_bidule wrote:
Something went wrong in your module programming.
This vehicle works with CH3 since the vehicle exists.
Did you got the led to start blinking Green when you turned the ignition ON during programming?
Are you sure you select the good install method Data/Hadwired?
Did the LED started to blink Green when ignition was turned ON
If no Green flashes, test ignition and test the CAN wires of the vehicle
Can Low should be around .1.5 Volts
Can High should be around 3.5
I will check these this weekend.. Too late tonight..
What do you mean by this: "Are you sure you select the good install method Data/Hadwired?"
emerson098 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: September 15, 2009
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: October 22, 2009 at 9:52 PM / IP Logged  
When the LED flashes you can press the programming button to cycle between hard wiring and D2D
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