2006 mazda2 central locking diagram?

Well, I'm going to have to put this project away for a few weekends after a frustrating day of ups and downs. Here are the lessons learned for those of you playing at home, or who might be in the future. This morning I rewired the relays correctly in series to interrupt the black wire that goes from the Central Locking Unit (CLU) to the driver's door actuator. And then nothing worked.    This didn't make a lot of sense, until I realised (after a lot of trouble shooting) that the ground on that wire is somewhere else in the wiring harness, and so I was not interrupting the ground to the door actuator at all. Next I traced the wiring loom and was lucky enough to spot the relevant wire passing near to where I was installing the RKE receiver. Taking a punt that this was correct (since it was a ground wire and there are many with exactly the same markings) I separated it enough to snip it and meter it, and confirm I had now isolated ground from door actuator. Adding in some extra cable of sufficient gauge (as a common ground it was ~10A and I didn't want to be the weak link) I re-routed it through my relay logic and everything worked. I could now lock and unlock the door using the new remote or the driver's side door lock. So before I secured all the new wires and the RKE unit in the driver's foot well, I put the door lining back on and tested the power windows, and they were not working properly. The back windows were slow, front passenger window was not working and driver's window stuttered. Perhaps my new earth circuit via the relay path in the RKE unit was causing a voltage drop under load? Out of frustration, I removed all my work and put the central locking back to the way it was before I started - only to find the problem persisted. Maybe I'd damaged something. When the CD player died, I realised that I'd been working on the car for nearly two days with the stereo on and for the first few hours with the interior light on. I tried to start the car, and it wouldn't quite turn over. Arrghh I'd undone all that work for a flat battery. I hooked up the battery charger, while I set about rewiring from scratch. This time it was much quicker and neater, because I had a nicely documented circuit in front of me, and knew how long / short to cut things, where I could splice, etc. Finally when I started the car so I had a good 12V supply, every thing worked perfectly, RKE, power windows, stereo. It was all good, or so I thought... I neatly wrapped the new wiring loom, piggy backed the RKE to the existing CLU (almost identical size boxes) with some adhesive velcro tape, reinstalled all the trim, and packed up all my tools. When I came back the RKE wouldn't open the locks! I could hear the relays clicking but the doors weren't responding. The driver's key lock still worked all actuators as did the driver's internal lock. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to "on" and everything worked. Take it out and it worked for about a minute. So it seems that the anti theft unit shuts down the CLU about a minute after the key is removed from the ignition. So all that work, and hacking the wiring loom, and this approach was never going to work! Now I'm wishing I had taken howie ll's advice and simply dodged the trigger, by driving the actuators directly, bypassing the CLU. Unfortunately, I don't have another free weekend for a while now, but I'll be sure to post my adventures for your continued entertainment. Perhaps it will save some other poor soul from the same frustration. CheersThe best things in life aren't things.