hood switch, 2003 ford explorer sport

Also,,,if I recall correctly...when we had the system installed, I believe they needed the 2nd key so they could replicate a third one for the bypass. I take it that there must be a third key that they inserted into the remote module or by-pass unit? Is there an actual 3rd key inserted into the remote module or is there a 2nd by-pass module under the dash that the 3rd key is inserted into? I assume if this 3rd key is bad...I can replicate another one using both the original keys and then inserting the newly replicated key into the remote module or by-pass unit? Thanks again,Geo

Ref the original post. Most hood switches go to ground when the hood is opened, thus sending a neg signal to the R/S unit preventing the start. Ford switches are the other way round. Grounded when hood closed and open circuit when hood opened. Just wire in a normal ,i.e. aftermarket hood switch and connect your R/S.

they either programmed a 3rd key and laced it in a universal bypass (coffin) box, or they programmed a designed pellet( i.e. dei 555f or the like) either way its either that bypass has failed( needs replaced? which i have vary rarely seen), or the pellet/ring has shifted and the car cant read the chip any longer, or the output from remote start whih energizes the chip has defected, if your not familiar with installations your best course of action would be to have a qualified installer check it out for you, there are many variables for someone unexperienced to be checking themselves but if the remote start works with the key in ign then its definately a bypass issue which i believe it to be

Just got home and tried the remote start with the key in the ignition and sure enough the remote start worked. At least now I know that its a bypass problem. Just for my own curiosity I'll look under the dash and see if there are any loose connections or can see anything obviously out of place. I would like to see if its indeed a 3rd key in a "coffin" as Jim called it. Just interested in how this system works. My wife wants it operational before the Maine winter begins...so I'll most likely end up taking it a local auto electronics specialist. Again thanks for all the replies.    Geo.

just re-read your first line, its a powercode? so it was installed by your dealer when you purchased the vehicle? an independant shop will probably only be able to sell you and install/reprogram a new bypass for the p.a.t.s system as ford dealers have their own bypass made for them by code-alarm which are not available to the generalmarket(only ford dealers thru a ford parts depot),but a d.e.i. bypass or an idatalink, or a key in a coffin can be used, your system i believe only had a 3-36 warranty if sold by the dealer, doubtful that after all these years a loose connection would appear, it is more than likely product failure

JimI didn't realize that the bypass would be a a "Ford only" item. Now knowing that, I'll contact the Ford dealer that installed it. That was back in 2003 so it's way past any warranty. If I remember correctly, I believe they had an independent installer come to the dealership to do the install. I'll have to see what they think. Thanks,Geo.

Hi Mike...No haven't had any keys made for it. Will remove the column shroud and check the ring or pellet this afternoon and report back. Thanks,Geo

Well...i separated the upper from lower steering column shroud to expose the ignition switch and lo and behold... the wire that goes to the loop around the ignition switch had somewhow wedged itself and kinked between the ignition switch and where the upper and lower shroud meet. I smoothed the kink out of the wire and the remote started the vehicle (key not in the ignition). I tried it several times from several angles and from about 50 feet from the vehicle and it worked everytime. Put the shroud back together and tried it several more times and so far...so good. I'm not sure why or how it wedged and kinked. No one has been in there to my knowledge...though we did notice that when we had tires changed a few weeks ago the tech had moved the seat and tilt wheel. Perhaps the tilting pulled the wire. This is the original unit installed back when the car was new back in 2003 and this is the first time we've had any problem with it. Anyone know if I have any further problems with this wire if its available separately from Ford or aftermarket sources? I should probably go back inside the shroud and figure how to secure the wire better so it doesn't ride up and wedge itself again. Will make sure it works for a week or so and ask the wife not to use the tilt function for now. Thanks again to everyone for their help.Geo

good job vort, wire just being wedged between plastic shouldnt have caused the issue, quite possibly the copper inside is broken and your moving it is allowin it to make contact, if its justthe wire going to the ring id cut out the kinked part and make sure it has a good connection, but at leastthe good thing is if the probelm comes back you only lose remote start not key starting