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4 12 pioneer champion series subs

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Member - Posts: 25
Member spacespace
Joined: November 04, 2009
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: December 17, 2009 at 8:33 AM / IP Logged  
OK, so i didnt sell my subs again. But now I've run into a slightly larger problem. while hooking up 2 kenwood 1800 watt amps, they would cut out. i know i had the wiring correct, plus my capacitor has enough power to run both of the amps, but yet and still they kept cutting off. plus i had 2 subs wired down to 1 ohm per amp, but i dont think it had anything to do with it because when i unassed 1 amp, the other worked perfectly fine. So, any suggestions as to what i can do to make this 2 amp system work, or is there 1 strong amp that can give me good spl without sacrificing too much sq? and is the Alpine mrp-1000 one that will do the trick?
Life is what u make of it so make the best of it
Copper - Posts: 716
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 05, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: December 17, 2009 at 1:47 PM / IP Logged  
j.reed wrote:
2. If that is RMS rating you are looking at more than just a battery or cap. You are looking at a high output alt and big 3 at minumum
That cap wont do anything for you, unless you like the cool lights on it. The Alt is where all your power comes from. Get a voltmeter and start checking voltage drop. You are most likely not giving the amps enough voltage to keep running if the subs are wired for the correct ohm load.
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Platinum - Posts: 5,053
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: December 17, 2009 at 4:24 PM / IP Logged  
1: What is "unassed"? Seriously...
2: 1800W + 1800W = 3600W (shyah, right... Kenwood, dude...)
    3600W / 14.4V = 250A
Do you have a 300+ amp alternator? I didn't think so. The reason your amps are turning off is because you are pulling far more power than your car's POWER SOURCE (aka "alternator" - you've heard of them, I'm sure...) can provide. This causes severe voltage drops, and until the alternator can recharge the battery enough to bring the voltage back up to where the amps can turn on, there ya have your answer.
Your amps, running WFO, are gonna want to pull up to 250A BY THEMSELVES, now add in (as suggested) the lights, your car's ECU, AC, turn signal and brake lights, rear defroster, wipers... You get the idea... I hope.
Think the cap is helping? It isn't. (Although is is NOT hindering as bad as everybody else says it is, it is most decidedly NOT helping your issue in the slightest...) The cap and battery DO NOTHING BUT FILTER - the battery is (first and foremost) a voltage filter, and the cap is a current filter. The battery is there to start the car, and nothing more. The alternator provides all of the electrical power for all of the electrical devices in your car. Address it. Now.
To find out how much more alternator you need, you need to know your OEM alternator's capacity. Multiply that by roughly 80% to know how much the manufacturer thinks your car will pull on a regular basis. Now add that number to the NEW amplifier load (250A); now you know about how much alternator you need.
OEM alternator 100A
100A * 80% = 80A
80A OEM load design + 250A new accessory load = 330A
Additionally, for a 330A alternator, you are going to need to upgrade ALL of your underhood wiring to at least a 1/0. Regarding underhood wiring, bigger is better, in my opinion, with no exception to that rule.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Copper - Posts: 76
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 05, 2009
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 20, 2009 at 8:46 PM / IP Logged  
I agree with haemphyst. Those amps are way overrated. As far as your question with the Alpine MRP1000 I own it and its a great amp. The only thing I dont like about it is the price, but you get what you pay for. The amp eats power and you actually should run 1/0 GA wire to a distribution block then run a foot or 2 with 4GA wire to the amp. Just a suggestion thats what I did and it worked perfectly.
Escape The Scilence
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