remote starter wiring, 1994 mercury sable

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bigpoppa69

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: November 13, 2009

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: November 13, 2009 at 10:43 PM / IP Logged

Hi, i work in home construction and remodeling and have lots of electrical experience. However, I have never done any wiring on a car before. I am going to attempt to set up a remote starter for my car but i just have some confusion about the "control module." I am going to tell u what i am planning to do and please tell me if i'm wrong. I know there is a positive 12 volt wire coming from the battery to the ignition switch. I want to cut this at some place under the dash and attach it to my control module right? But obviously since I cut a wire, it splits it into 2 wires. I wanna connect the battery side with the positive 12 volts to the control module, but what about the other side that connects to the ignition switch? This same question goes for all the wires pretty much. For example, I find the starter, ignition, accessory, brake, and trunk wires, then I am supposed to just split them and connect one of the 2 wires from the split to the control module? or both? i hope u can understand my question basically i have a wire from the control module and 2 wires (from the split), thats 3 wires total from each starter, ignition, etc connection, and don't understand which to connect. Will wires become inactive or pointless basically?

mikvot

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Joined: December 19, 2006

Location: Missouri, United States

Posted: November 13, 2009 at 11:42 PM / IP Logged

Ok.....year/make/model would help...and what kind of system. I know you want general info, but all of this info helps us greatly. In most cases, there is no reason to "cut" any wire in the vehicle, except the starter wire if you are during a security system, or antigrind relay.

bigpoppa69

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: November 13, 2009

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: November 14, 2009 at 12:08 AM / IP Logged

Ok sorry. The car is a 1994 mercury sable 3.0L v6. I have found the wiring diagrams on this website. Maybe I can rephrase my question better. Should I just splice into all the appropriate wires and therefore keep everything hooked up the way it is? Only changing that my control module is attached to these circuits? Therefore, the conrol module sends electric signal to the splice to, for example, the trunk release wiring? In this situation the electric signal the control module is sending goes to the splice to the trunk release but also to whatever controlled the trunk release before I fooled around with it such as the OLD remote trunk release system that came with the car. Seems like you are therefore connecting two hot wires together, two different systems that send electric signals to the trunk release.

bigpoppa69

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: November 13, 2009

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: November 14, 2009 at 12:13 AM / IP Logged

also i am thinking about getting the omega excalibur mars-22 system. it seems like a quality company for a good price and it doesnt have an alarm system which i dont want.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: November 14, 2009 at 3:34 AM / IP Logged

The first rule is solder, don't splice, the second rule is that there is no general rule for R/S, every make and model is different with yearly variations, the third rule is test everything, the fourth rule and no insult intended but generally household/construction electricians make really lousey auto electricians because of AC, lower currents and pre-conceived ideas!

bigpoppa69

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: November 13, 2009

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: November 14, 2009 at 10:34 AM / IP Logged

Ok well my question is still waiting to be answered. Yes i used the word splice because thats what I meant, the word splice means to join together (soldering is a way to do this). Now if someone could answer my question and not criticize my wording or knowledge that would be great. Also I don't care whether you would think I would make a good auto electrician or not, i am just trying to set up this remote starter thats it. Let me put my question in other words again. When you have a NEW remote start/keyless entry control module WITH POWER, and the OLD factory module (remote for my car has lock, unlock, trunk open, and panic functions) WITH POWER, and you join these wires together, aren't you just connecting two hot wires together?

JWorm

Platinum - Posts: 2,208

Joined: December 11, 2002

Location: New Hampshire, United States

Posted: November 14, 2009 at 1:40 PM / IP Logged

bigpoppa69 wrote:

Let me put my question in other words again. When you have a NEW remote start/keyless entry control module WITH POWER, and the OLD factory module (remote for my car has lock, unlock, trunk open, and panic functions) WITH POWER, and you join these wires together, aren't you just connecting two hot wires together?

AC and DC are totally different. You will not need to cut 1 wire in the car. Everything will be "spliced" together. The only wire you could possibly cut would be the start wire IF you are installing a starter kill or anti-grind. Mars/Omega/Excalibar is rather cheap product. You won't find many reputable shops that install them. I would look for something else. DEI (Viper, Python, Clifford, Valet and others), or Compustar. Others here like Audiovox/Prestige as well.

Now that I think about it, those doorlocks may be 5-wire reverse polarity. I'm too lazy right now to look up the tech sheet for it though. If they are, you will need to cut the lock and unlock wires and use relays.

jim hunter

Silver - Posts: 351

Joined: March 23, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 14, 2009 at 4:40 PM / IP Logged

unlike household 110v wiring, wires dont need to be cut and twisted, you can open up the insulation and do a military splice(just as strong and reliable as solder, actually more reliable if your not good at soldering ) after stripping open insulation, use a pick or a small flathead and poke open the copper to create a "hole" thead your new wiring into the hole and twist around going both in front of your added wire and behind , you can crimp with pliers for added security feeling of your wrap them wrap with a good quality electrical tape,only wires that may need to be cut and butt connected or soldered is starter wire(if system has antigrind circuit) and possibly door lock wires if your car doesnt have factory keyless( if it does they are tap in also)DO NOT USE household wire nuts on any of your connections

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: November 14, 2009 at 4:40 PM / IP Logged

Hot wire = pre-conceived ideas! I rest my case! Sorry I had to do it. Never known an OEM alarm to be compatible with an aftermarket alarm, too many different ideas. about what does what, data etc.

bigpoppa69

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: November 13, 2009

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: November 14, 2009 at 9:27 PM / IP Logged

Hey JWorm and Jim Hunter that helps out so much. I really really appreciate it.

jim hunter wrote:

DO NOT USE household wire nuts on any of your connections

Just out of curiosity, why are you so serious about not using wire nuts? I was gonna solder everything and just tape it but I am still curious as to why wire nuts aren't a possible alternative?

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