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2006 honda civic factory alarm wires


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 08, 2009 at 5:47 AM / IP Logged  

A couple of thoughts. 

The Compustar R/S's usually have a 3 second delay after you hold the start button for 2.5 seconds & the parking lights flash before it starts cranking.  Thats annoying but normal.

Not real sure if your problem is the bypass or the R/S.  (Although it sounds like a tach sense problem.)  Which bypass did you use?   Did it program OK?  Try the R/S sequence with the key in the ignition but not turned at all.  That will tell you if it's the bypass. 

If you hooked up the Tach wire ( Fuel Injector is the most reliable for cold climates ) then set the Compustar for Tach Mode (Default setting 1).  Fuel injector wire is oppisite the common Yellow/Black wire.  You can check it with DMM set on AC.  Should see around a .6 volt signal at idle that increases with RPMs. 

Not sure which Compustar model you have.  I have been using the newer 5200 and 6200 units.  They require a manual tach learn process before a R/S sequence will work. 

1. Start the car with the key.  Let it idle down.

2. Step on the brake pedal ( must have the (+) Brake input hooked up).

3. Press and hold the Start button 2.5 seconds.  If you have a good tach source, the parking lights will flash once.  3 flashes means it didn't learn.

Almost forgot.  Did you see the warnings about using the (+) parking light signal?  Safer to use the (-) parking light wire, gray wire in the steering column at the light switch harness.

Soldering is fun!
hondaguy652 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2009
Posted: December 08, 2009 at 8:33 AM / IP Logged  
bypass, are you talking about the blade ignition bypass? I have the blade installed, when it programmed it was successful blinking green light 2x's. I did notice when I drove it this morning that the blade was blinking 6 times green in color, not sure what that means, I'll need to look.
I set the tach wire to auto sensing, so maybe I should connect it to the fuel injector wire, the yllw/blck wire you mention is that the honda factory wire or compustar wire?
I did use the gray wire in the steering column.
I'm installing the 5000 unit, the RF-P2WSS.
Thanks again.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,787
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 08, 2009 at 1:09 PM / IP Logged  

OK.  Compustar CM5000 with blade.  Which Blade?  There are 2 possibilities.  It sounds like you have the ADS Blade-TB if you are hooking up the Compustar to the door locks and the alarms.  That means you should have downloaded the Blade-TB HA firmware to the blade module.  The 20 pin harness that comes with the blade gets plugged into the CM5000 and you connect the the Gray/Red wire from that harness to the car as per the IDatalink instructions for Type 4 installs.  When you program it, the green light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out.  If you have the Blade-AL, thats a whole different ball game.

As for the Tach wire, from the CM5000 its CN3 pin 14 - Yellow/Black.  It connects to any Fuel Injector.  There are two wires on each injector.  All have the common Yellow/Black wire and each has a unique colored second wire.  Thats the wire you want.  On the Civic they are hard to get to but it affords the most reliable signal for cold climates.  My Compustar manual gives 4 choices for CM5000 option 2-10.  1=Tach 2=Alternator 3=Volt Sense 4=1.5 second crank.  You want choice 1, which is the default.  Then do the manual tach lean process previously mentioned.

Soldering is fun!
zerepdivad 
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Joined: July 03, 2006
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 08, 2009 at 4:46 PM / IP Logged  
^ actually i just did one of these cars literally 3 days ago or so and tach was very easy to get to. It was right there at the injector which was very easy to get to.
A DMM is a beautiful thing.
MECP Advanced Installer Certified.
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: December 08, 2009 at 10:06 PM / IP Logged  
On all Honda/Acura, the Blade is suppose to flash 4 times after remote start. This shows that the modules learned properly and is bypassing the immobilizer. Everytime you make changes to your wiring on your Blade, you have to reset the Blade cartridge to ensure a fresh program from the Data wire from the OEM immobilizer.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
hondaguy652 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2009
Posted: December 09, 2009 at 8:16 AM / IP Logged  
I'm using the Blade TB, so it's just a one wire hook up to the data line. I didn't get a chance to work on it last night but going after it tonight, it better be done when I'm finished.
Zerepdivad - Do you remember the door unlock wire, it is grey the one I initially hooked up to doesn't show ground until the unlock is hit twice on the factory remote, there is another grey wire that I grounded and it unlocked the doors but it did register on my DMM. I tried changing my door lock programming to give a double pulse but for whatever reason it's not doing it, I don't have the programming tool just using the remote.
Thanks for the input I'll give an update tomorrow, it's freezing up here right now so I found a buddy with a heated garage so I can get this thing done.
zerepdivad 
Silver - Posts: 605
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Joined: July 03, 2006
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 09, 2009 at 1:35 PM / IP Logged  
I remember it being grey, but i don't recall it being double pulse. I remember it was just a basic single pulse. If you found another grey wire and grounded it and the droors unlocked then that's gonna be it. I remember it was a green plug up behind the fusebox. I got my disarm right there as well.
A DMM is a beautiful thing.
MECP Advanced Installer Certified.
hondaguy652 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2009
Posted: December 09, 2009 at 10:37 PM / IP Logged  
Well got it all done tonight thanks to everyones input, I really appreciate that! I found the fuel injector wire and that was the ticket to the start up. I will post more on that tomorrow so when someone in the future goes to find it they will know what is going on.
I do have one more option that I just couldn't get to work but didn't spend much time on it. The RPS unlock set up I couldn't get it to go into learn mode. I even went back and installed the driver door sensor since it seemed to want that as part of the set up mode. But after I would knock 10 time (man my knuckles hurt) it wouldn't go into learn mode. Anyone have suggestions?
hondaguy652 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2009
Posted: December 10, 2009 at 7:04 PM / IP Logged  
here is my follow up on the civic fuel injector, as some of you may or may not know (i didn't know) that there is a fuel injector for each cylinder on the civic, so there are four to chose from but I would recommend the easiest one to get to and that is the left one when you are looking at the engine.
The fuel injectors are hidden if you don't know what you are looking for. When you are looking at the engine on the back side of the engine there is a plastic cover that kind of looks like it is part of the engine, grab that and pull up and it will come off. I think it is held in the middle and the right side. Once you have that the fuel injectors are exposed, you won't see them from the front because the back of the engine is tucked into the hood, so look from the left with a flash light. The first thing you'll notice is a plug coming in on the left side of the engine when you are looking from the front, now down to the right of that hidden is the first fuel injector, it is just held on by a clip so just squeeze both sides and pull up. Then trim the housing holding the two wire, the wires are short so you don't have a lot to work with. Thanks to Kreg I knew that the yellw/blk wire was the common wire and the other wire on mine which was red was the one you want. Just tap into it plug the injector back in and put the plastic cover back in place and you are set. Littl cramped but very doable. Also if you look on the firewall in the middle you will see a big wire housing coming out and right next to it a quarter sized empty rubber grommet, that is where I went through, on thee inside the fabric is cut out around it so it is easy to find an get through.
Still looking for some help on the RPS.
hondaguy652 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2009
Posted: December 30, 2009 at 8:58 PM / IP Logged  
I've had my remote start up and running for a couple of weeks now and I just noticed that my parking light fuse blew out. Looking for some thoughts on how to prevent it from happening again, is there to much power coming from the starter brain?
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