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200 ma enough?


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KPierson 
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Posted: December 27, 2009 at 4:24 PM / IP Logged  

Supply the (-) current directly from ground through the meter.  This will cause the solenoid to latch and you should be able to read the current.

Also, for short pulses disable auto ranging, it will allow you to read signals faster.

Kevin Pierson
howie ll 
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Posted: December 27, 2009 at 5:50 PM / IP Logged  
Blimey over here you can buy a DMM with hold for under $50, its enough for this job.
chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 27, 2009 at 10:38 PM / IP Logged  
Honestly, I think you should just verify that you've got the correct trunk relase wire and connect it. I've never yet seen an alarm aux output that couldn't activate a relay circuit on a car.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
hum dinger 
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Posted: December 28, 2009 at 7:05 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks guys,  Got the alarm installed and it works great.  You were right chriswallace187, it works right off the alarm without a relay.  There is one problem though....when I dissarm the car it unlocks the doors but it also pops the trunk.  Remotely poping the trunk does NOT mess with the door though.  Any ideas?
KPierson 
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Posted: December 28, 2009 at 7:13 PM / IP Logged  
It may help if you tell us what alarm you put in the car - only one guy on this site has a crystal ball and he has yet to post in this thread.
Kevin Pierson
chriswallace187 
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Posted: December 28, 2009 at 7:15 PM / IP Logged  
It won't surprise me at all if this is a Scytek alarm, since I've had exactly the same problem with one.
Try using a separate relay activated by the trunk release output, wired as follows:
85: (-) trunk release output from alarm
86: constant fused 12v+
87: ground
30: trunk release wire on car
That worked in my case...I assumed that for whatever reason the unlock output and trunk release output weren't isolated very well on the pc board, and there was just low enough resistance to ground to activate the trunk release circuit on the car when "unlock" was pressed.
Definite design flaw in that module(and I tried a spare brain with the same results) but it was easy enough to work around.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
hum dinger 
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Posted: December 28, 2009 at 7:15 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry, I was just coming back to add that info but your faster than I am haha.

2007 Hyundai Elantra

Autopage C3-RS665-2W

Thanks

i am an idiot 
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Posted: December 28, 2009 at 7:53 PM / IP Logged  
The crystal ball is down at the moment.  Sorry.
howie ll 
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Posted: December 29, 2009 at 2:46 AM / IP Logged  
Er I think we just came round full circle, that's what I suggested on the previous page Chris!
Here's an alternative though to completely isolate it:-
Trunk trigger from alarm to 85, constant 2amp fused to 86, existing wire, car side 87a, trunk side 30 and good ground to 87.
hum dinger 
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Posted: December 29, 2009 at 5:59 PM / IP Logged  
Do you think it's getting the stray current from the BMC of the car?   If I'm understanding your wiring suggestion correctly.  I would have thought it would be in the alarms brain.
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