viper 5901

First, DON'T open that processor, I've been there on a Mits and you don't want to know the problems thereafter! Second I wonder if you've thought this through? How does the master switch control the passenger side? No problem if motor wires but I bet it's either data or ground pulsing in which case my first post was correct, you just have to power the driver's window switch module for 7-10 secs. Let's face it, the Hyundai Elantra is about as common and desirable in this country as rocking horse droppings. BUT they have always used Mitsubishi technology under licence.

The drivers window is the only window that has low current negative triggers. I've used (after thorough testing with a DMM) a jumper through a 1a fuse to ground to roll it up and down and it works fine, the passenger and both rear windows are heavy gauge motor wires. Once again tested with a DMM.   And don't worry about me opening anything, like I said before I'm not trying to crack open a sealed module to find a bucket of worms. I don't care how "possible" I've heard it is, its not necessary when a negative trigger works just fine. The only window in the car that is not traditional motor wires is the drivers, its also coincidently the only window with AUTO down.

Great, now we've tested this is the method. First question. At the driver's switch panel is just the driver's switch trigger wires or are they all motor wires bar the driver's. If so use 3 x 530s and a relay set an aux for 7-10 secs to work any time. Set another aux to work as pulsed, Now take the first aux to the relay and your 530s. Timed aux to 85 and up wire at switch. Ignition feed to window switch panel, feed to 87a and constant 12v+ fused at 30 amps to 87 and 86. The window side of the cut feed to 30. Run the lead from 85 to the driver's window switch "up side" The second aux, run it the 530 vent wires and again to the relay at 85 and then on to driver's window switch "down side". That will get you the desired result though if you wire the 530s at the other doors between the switches and motors this set up will give you one touch close/open on ALL the switches but close on first aux and vent on second, but it will only vent the driver's window not open it completely unless you hold the second aux. I'm surprised you found motor wires for the other doors in the driver's window because most Japanese/Korean cars now use neg. or pos. or data switching. One last thing remember to diode those 2 aux wires, 1N4004 with the bands towards the 5901.