mazdaspeed protege system build

Not opposed to door enclosures at all! Just take your time on the build. I haven't done an aperiodic before, but if you're doing an enclosure on the door itself, it's going to make the door considerably heavier, and you'll have to seal it well. Any leakage not going through that ape vent is going to start exhibiting characteristics of a free air enclosure.

Thinking of using three of these Scan-Speak Aperiodic Vents for each Anarchy and one for my SW6210 since there spec's make them candidates for use in an aperiodic enclosure and it would be much easier than making a ported door enclosure.Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

Well I have another reason why I hate winter.... winter + fiberglass = MORE MEKP Oh and don't use doodiey tape. And always use two layers...its not a waste. I didn't care because I was going to put black carpeting over the sides of my trunk anyway. But if that had hardened it probably would not have come off.Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

I'm in the process of building an AP enclosure for my midrange as well. The Cookbook you linked is the best resource I could find regarding how to build them. Lots of articles hint at calculators for buuilding the enclosures and the properties of the membrane to use, but I can't find any. Tuning with a multimeter to see the impedance peak being lowered as membrane material is added seems to work just fine though. If you'd like to see what I'm doing have a look here. I'll be following your work here, eager to see what you build. Remember to seal off the rear of the membrane from the front of the woofer, just like the more common infinite baffle design : ) -JMalcom: "This is the captain. We have a...little problem with our engine sequence, so we may experience some slight turbulence and then...explode."

Jayne: "We're gonna explode? I don't wanna explode.

I'm finishing up a testing box for one of the anarchy's that is .5cuft including the port displacement and tuned to 40Hz with a 1X5" port 14"long just like WinISD said. I should be able to hook it up in the next few days and drive around with it. Then I'll order the scan speak AP vents and test drive them in that kind of enclosure.Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

I emailed Acoustiblok a few days ago and they called me back with information and prices. They sell 4'X5' (20sqft) for $65 each plus shipping and the next size up from that was a 4.5'X30' roll (135sqft) for $389 plus shipping. My exhaust is REALLY LOUD so I plan on getting the roll and applying it to my floor, doors, roof, and my trunk including the floor sides and lid. The guy I talked to said he used dynamat in his cars before he started working for the company. Now he just uses Acoustiblok. He said on his current car he reduced the noise level by 10dB. I'll have a large up date soon with progress on both the sub box and amp rack.Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

We may have spoken to the same sales guy haha. He has some great advice. I found that when installing the material in my car- even though it's only 1/8" thick- reinstalling the interior was more difficult because many of the panels fit very snug already. Sometimes I would have to trim the acoustiblok more than I wanted, or use an extra screw or two to hold the car's interior to the sheet metal. It was a challenge, but worth it in my eyes. Good luck with that, and have fun. The other idea would be to get an exhaust that's not so loud, might be cheaper and easier.Malcom: "This is the captain. We have a...little problem with our engine sequence, so we may experience some slight turbulence and then...explode."

Jayne: "We're gonna explode? I don't wanna explode.

teenkertoy wrote: The other idea would be to get an exhaust that's not so loud, might be cheaper and easier.

NahhhDodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

Big update!!! Ill do it in stages: Sub Box Amp Rack Doors Anarchy's It will be a mixture of progress, plans and how to.Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

Stage 1 Sub Box: I succeeded in fiberglassing the contour of my trunk on a slightly warmer day and with the assistance of my 1000 degree heat gun to kick of the reaction. After trimming away some excess glass I temporarily screwed it to the base so that I could transfer the curves of the baffle onto the fiberglass using a square. A few gig-saw blades later... I started making a brace that would also serve to shape the glass to avoid my trunk hinge which I tried to avoid in the first place but couldn't with my baffle the way it is. Then I got the idea to continue the curve over the top of the box for aesthetics. I cut those braces out of MDF and they split because I didn't drill the holes deep enough. So I will re-make them out of birch plywood. Made a little end cap. That's as far as I am right now. I think I will re-make the trim ring (the yellow part below) out of MDF to get a better finish on it because right now its particle board and I am not sure about how to get a glossy smooth finish on it. Lacquer? Here is what the final product will look like. Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery