led, surface mount resistors.

Ah, second picture is a bust again: Here it is. My apologies again.

One last time, tinypic messing with me... If it does not work, I suppose take my word for the 5v reference then.

Tee hee! I too hate being unable to edit else delete posts, but it's not my server space. And readers just have to read ahead in anticipation of corrections & addendums. The last to https://i47.tinypic.com/2lu9wth.jpg has also been deleted. But I have had no problems uploading pics here provided the filename is not long (say 10 characters). In fact that's one thing I REALLY like about the 12volt - it hosts my images - I do NOT have to link to images stored elsewhere. Interesting that for a LED that would nominally have a 150R resistor, it still glows at 5,000R (compare that to a 2W-3W bulb with its equivalent 15R to 500R range). That shows how sensitive LEDs can be. It also demonstrates what a pain they can be in circuits with leakage, or why they are unsuitable as charging-lamps for alternators. As to needing resistors for the LEDs - they should be needed if the supply exceeds their voltage (say 2V or 3.4V etc) unless each LED is current limited (to 20mA etc). But it may be possible to limit their voltage. EG - if 5V supply, want 3.4V max: 5-3.4 = 1.6V. Diodes have a fwd V drop of 0.6 to 0.7V. 2 diodes might hence drop 1.2-1.4V (hence LEDs get max 3.6-3.8V - a bit high?) 3 diodes 1.8-2.1 => LEDs 2.9-3.2V - maybe ok? Just the 2 or 3 diodes in series with the supply (ie, from the dimmer pot etc). The diodes need to be rated for the full current (number of LEDs x 20mA etc, hence a 1A IN4004 etc should handle 50x20mA LEDs). Not that I looked at the circuitry too well, and I assume you are correct about the 5V lamp supply (which seems strange unless they use 5V bulbs - sure they ain't 12V - maybe a grounded dimmer?). BTW - I assume the blue LEDs are not needed for colour discrimination or as a point source? It was something I meant to say much earlier.... If colour discrimination is required, then "the standards" say it must "subtend an angle of 2 degrees at the eye". In other words, if blue and too small, we can't tell it's blue. Or, we tend to be blue insensitive - blue need much higher power than greens or reds.      Blue can also be stressful for some - eg, cars with blue LEDs (windscreen washers etc). And blue with red makes for a 3-D image for the 95% of people with misaligned retinas etc (ie, most people have "faulty" eyes!) - or am I confusing the fault with those 3-D printed pictures.... yes - I am - blue bends different to red - hence the 3-D effect through glasses. The 3D effect through focussing works for the ~95% with misaligned eyes... Alas my eyes are also misaligned, and MadCow is still apparent....

Everywhere I look says the illumination lamps receive a 5v reference and is tied into the pot/dimmer on the dash. Let me post some link to some pdf and maybe you can take a look at them for me: UART.pdf IP & Console.pdf IC Illumination Lamps.pdf HVAC SW Radio IC.pdf DIC Schematics.pdf Dimmer Control.pdf In any case I will pull the dimmer bezel and measure what one of those twist-lock style bulbs are receiving voltage wise. just let me know if you gather the same thing form the diagrams that I did. thank you!

Second pdf did not link correctly. ICIlluminationLamps.pdf

One last try... IPConsole.pdf

Grrrr! How I ever told you how much I hate you? LOL! Other than that, I'm merely saying that I've downloaded the pdfs but won't look till later. Damned reality calls..... Cheers.

Haha I'm not forcing you to help, but I do appreciate it man! Not too many knowledgeable folks over at the Aurora forum with this type of stuff. Take your time. I have plenty of time to figure this out. I won't receive the rest of my items for another ten or so days. Still like to a set game plan though!

I probed out one of the twist-lock filament bulbs. Contrary to my belief it was anywhere from 5v on dim to almost 11v at max. Maybe I am missing something in the diagrams.