ah draw?

I installed a unit in a vehicle that draws 6/10 ah per day. is this something that can kill a battery. there is no on off switch so i'm assuming it's not much-but i'd like to make sure. can someone enlighten me? thanks

Do you mean 0.6 Amp? Or 6 to 10 Amp? You draw current (A) - there is no time involved, unless you say (eg) 3A for 5 hours = 15AH; and if once per day = ... and I'm not sure 15AH per 24H = 3.125AH over 24 hours makes sense for a battery because battery reserves are dependent on the rate of discharge (Amps)... Anyhow, clarify your drain current. And if you know your battery type, or AH rating.... FYI = 0.6A is about 8 Watts which can flatten a smallish battery overnight. Dome lights are usually 10W, but might be 5W.

that 6/10 ah per day is exactly how the manual says it. i'm not sure on the batt. 09 ram is all i know.....i originally thought it was 6 10th's of an amp per day. i dunno....does that help?

IMO - that means 0.6AH/day which is (in energy terms) a 25mA drain (0.6/24=.025) - ie, the equivalent of a 0.6AH loss per day. Probably the smallest vehicle battery is ~40AH; most lage cars etc probably have 80AH. A 40AH battery should last 30 days or more (40AH/.6AH/day = 66 days, but batteries are not "linear"). A 25mA load is a bit more than most LEDs (10-20mA). A 3W bulb is 10x that current (250mA) And one headlamp about 20x again (ie, one 60W (5A) headlamp is 200x 25mA. Does 25mA seem likely for your "unit"? A DMM/multimeter should confirm it load....

What are you installing that drains that much? Can you connect it to an accessory circuit instead? The standard car parasitic draw is .050A where yours is .6A. Sorry, but that is huge.

The unit is the amplifier for the federal signal rumbler system. if it's that much of a drain, i'll have to put it on a switcH

Aha! But why the heck would the Rumbler be unswitched? The ACC circuit is perfect - on only when the IGN is on (except when cranking). If concerned that you are stopped somewhere and need the rumbler, leave the ACC on. I don't see its need when parked at home etc. And if in a intersection, your ACC is probably on unless your "full-time" rumbler caused your flat-battery & vehicle breakdown. If ignition is off, you are probably involved in some accident so the rumbler is probably targeting you anyhow. That's if I understand the rumblers. (Ironic isn't it when safety devices themselves cause hazards?! Though that's not as bad as security devices causing deaths (eg - smart-chipped cars)!)

Ok, i'm gonna review the manual. maybe i'll wire it to one of the 3 slide positions on the controller. So, this 6/10ah standby current is a potential flat battery cause?thanks again. it seems as if there are different opinions on this........

What are the different opinions, and from "who" - ie, what background or authority? If some info says connect full-time, then I presume do so. Yimke and I seem to agree. Yimke is saying if it's 0.6A, that's too big. I am saying if it's 0.025A, it should last a fair while (but battery specs, environment & other loads have a HUGE impact). Yimke states that a "standard car parasitic draw is .050A" and my 0.025A = 25mA is under that. (25mA being mathematically 0.6AH over 24 hours - but NOT 0.6A over 24 hours!) And I reckon the Rumbler should be IGN or ACC corrected - unless there is some valid reason for 24 hour rumbling, probably barking of dogs and waking of insects, maybe alarms, etc. So I ask - where do the opinions differ from above? And by whom?