door actuator wiring

I have the relays wired up exactly like the diagram. But the fuse blows every time.

Even if the actuators are stuck this shouldn't cause the fuse to pop! Do as moonliter said and disconnect the actuators from the relays, however disconnect it at the relay and not at the motor, since it maybe a case of one of the motor wires shorted to the body through the door boot rubber! Notice the key word MAYBE!

All actuators or motors or solenoids or simply door lock motors are reversing polarity. One leg sits on ground whilst the other side is pulsed pos.To reverse the motion the second side stays neg whilst the first side is pulsed pos. Yes I'm not counting pneumatic "pumps" as used on M/Benz and VAG cars.

Okay I have drawn up my wiring. Note: -without the two actuator relays connected, the alarm and siren both work fine. -with the relays connected the fuse shorts instantly. -I have tried 30amp fuse. -I have tried with the actuators disconnected. -My relay wiring has been checked a million times. My hypothesis is that there is some critical error in my diagram that you guys can easily spot. Hence the poor drawing. Supplemental/irrelevant information The brain is a cm6200 Remote start. I have the Remote start working. 1991 mazda miata. The 12v is drawn straight from the battery fused. (this is the fuse that keeps popping. I have tested the relay for continuity. just testing pins 85 and 86 = no continuity. And just testing pins 85 and 86, they also have no continuity. So this should rule out that area of the relays I am supplying power? Thanks for the help.

Please do this, try it with one relay at a time or do the following:- At rest 87a and 30 should be continuous. 30 and 87 aren't. When the coil, 85 (-) and 86 (+) are connected, the circuit between 87a and 30 "breaks" and between 30 and 87 it "makes". 87a should NEVER connect to 87. Then still using your meter, still on continuity setting, join 1 lead to a good ground and the other lead to each motor wire in turn (with the motor wires disconnected). You should get no continuity. If you do that lead is shorting and that's your problem. If all of this fails, then please recheck your wiring, sorry, 35 years of experience tells me that if a fuse blows, something's in the wrong place! Last but not least you mentioned these relays were salvaged, nothing wrong there, the failure rate is one in millions. Had some 3 0r 4 fuel pump primer relays fail on Porsche and some Fords in the mid 90s but that was probably a Bosch or Hella batch problem, BUT check the connections, proprietary relays sometimes transpose 30 and 85, also make sure it's an 87a not 87b.

I am having the same problem. But it is not the 12+ fuse that is popping. It is the fuse coming out of the alarm. Any ideas why this would be happening. I have mine wired exactly the same way. I can get one part to work, either the unlock or lock, but the other will blow the fuse. The last questions is what amp fuse should be used for the relays?

jmkelly_us wrote: I am having the same problem. But it is not the 12+ fuse that is popping. It is the fuse coming out of the alarm. Any ideas why this would be happening. I have mine wired exactly the same way. I can get one part to work, either the unlock or lock, but the other will blow the fuse. The last questions is what amp fuse should be used for the relays?

The amperage of the fuse will depend on the amount of solenoids in your circuit! Also you should start your own thread, as this may distract from assisting the OP!

^quadruple check your wiring. If its correct... What kind of output for lock and unlock does your alarm send out? Ah I read somewhere that if the solenoid is seizing it may draw extra power and cause the fuse to blow. Check if that applies. I got a giant DMM..but I haven't a clue how to use it