98 sienna remote start, alarm disarm

kreg357 wrote: No diode necessary if the R/S's (-) Staus output is only going to the vans(-)  Keysense wire.  As for the alarm, what happens if you set the alarm (with the window down), unlock the drivers door with the key, reach into the van & insert a key into the ignition (but don't turn it), and then open a door?  Does the alarm still go off?  Sometimes keysense or keysense + ignition will turn off the alarm.

I will try this tonight. If it does work, how would I tie the two systems together if the keysense is already being used by the (-) output?

I'm not sure I understand your question.  The vans keysense signal would still work normally, it would just have the R/S's (-) Status output attached to it.

Usually the (-) Status output from the R/S is used to control the Bypass module.  Your van does not need a bypass module.  The R/S (-) Status output could be attached to the vans (-) Keysense wire to make the van think that a key has been inserted into the ignition switch during remote start.  The keysense signal is often used to turn off the alarm, sometimes in conjunction with other signals.

Don't worry too much about Keysense.  It may not be necessary for your van.  Your van might not trigger an alarm just by remote starting.  Did you find the Alarm Disarm blue wire in the drivers kick panel?

Also, on some new Toyota's, the remote keyless entry is disabled by the car when the engine is running.  That means if you remote start the van, your factory remote keyless entry will not unlock the doors.   Try starting your van with the key, then press the lock or unlock button on the factory FOB.  Anything happen?

Soldering is fun!

mkracer220 wrote: kreg357 wrote: I'm not sure I understand your question.  The vans keysense signal would still work normally, it would just have the R/S's (-) Status output attached to it. Usually the (-) Status output from the R/S is used to control the Bypass module.  Your van does not need a bypass module.  The R/S (-) Status output could be attached to the vans (-) Keysense wire to make the van think that a key has been inserted into the ignition switch during remote start.  The keysense signal is often used to turn off the alarm, sometimes in conjunction with other signals. Don't worry too much about Keysense.  It may not be necessary for your van.  Your van might not trigger an alarm just by remote starting.  Did you find the Alarm Disarm blue wire in the drivers kick panel? Also, on some new Toyota's, the remote keyless entry is disabled by the car when the engine is running.  That means if you remote start the van, your factory remote keyless entry will not unlock the doors.   Try starting your van with the key, then press the lock or unlock button on the factory FOB.  Anything happen?

Seems there isn't an edit post function.  I posted a reply without typing anything.

Found that the alarm disarms when you use the key to start it.  This would mean the van does have keysense and I will connect the (-)200mA output to this keysense.

Once started, the factory key fob will unlock the doors.  It will NOT lock the doors back though.

I think the goal is to just get the remote start working to the point it remote starts and unlock/lock the doors.  I would prefer to have the alarm arm and disarm from the RS fob.  Is there a way to teach the RS lock/unlock button to the factory alarm?

Yes, install the R/S unit and worry about the alarm later.  It is possible that a remote start with the Keysense signal supplied by 561R's (-) Status output will not only start the van and disarm the alarm too, allowing you to unlock the doors with the R/S FOB's and open them without an alarm. 

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: Yes, install the R/S unit and worry about the alarm later.  It is possible that a remote start with the Keysense signal supplied by 561R's (-) Status output will not only start the van and disarm the alarm too, allowing you to unlock the doors with the R/S FOB's and open them without an alarm.

That's great and all, but to disarm the alarm using the keysense feature the alarm has to be armed in the first place. It seems that is what I have left. How to arm the factory alarm with the door lock. Thanks again for all the help, the12volt is another great forum to come to for help. If you own a MR2 or 3sgte/3sfe/5sfe/3sge, check out www.mr2oc.com. Great group of guys.

According to the info from AudioVox site and the post from Ted, the vans alarm will turn on with a door lock.  If you attach the R/S's lock output to the van's Blue/White lock wire in the Driver Kick Panel, pressing the lock button on the R/S FOB will lock the doors and turn the alarm on.   Also, to find the lock/unlock wires in the drivers kick panel, you need to check the wire with a DMM while turning the key in the Passenger Door lock .

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: According to the info from AudioVox site and the post from Ted, the vans alarm will turn on with a door lock.  If you attach the R/S's lock output to the van's Blue/White lock wire in the Driver Kick Panel, pressing the lock button on the R/S FOB will lock the doors and turn the alarm on.   Also, to find the lock/unlock wires in the drivers kick panel, you need to check the wire with a DMM while turning the key in the Passenger Door lock .

I'll make sure to do it from the passenger door key lock. The only issue is that with the van all closed up, locking the van from either driver's or passenger's door lock will NOT arm the van. It will lock, but the security light will not come on. Also, unlocking the van from the driver's door lock will NOT disarm the van. Putting the key into the ignition and turning it WILL disarm.

Update: Got everything buttoned up. Decided to not go with the alarm combo because I couldn't come up with a way to arm the alarm. Doors lock and unlock with the lights working and locks working. Tach signal ended up coming from an orange wire from the rear of the combination meter (dash). Had to take the dash almost completely apart. The wife came out and was all upset saying her van was a wreck.... glad I'm somewhat gear-head. Thanks again for all the help.