01 4runner viper 5902

Putting in a 5902 remote start in a 2001 toy 4 runner and have a few questions.

1.)Do i need to hookup the oem alarm disarm wire, have two different wiring charts one says disarms with keysense the other shows the wire color.

2.)Do i need to hook up the tach wire or should i use the virtual tach?

3.)Does it still need an ign interface module for remote start?

4.)What are the (-) starter,ign outputs for on the h2 18pin connector for do i need them

5.)How would i wire the H3 10 pin connector?

1) e the actual disarm wire.  Alarm Disarm  BLUE/BLACK  (-)  18 PIN CONN IN DRIVERS KICK

2) run tach its more reliable3) you dont need an ignition interface, you need a bypass module for the transponder override durin rs.4) the additional (-) ign, acc, start outputs are used to add additional circuits if required. this vehicle has 2 ignitions. most toyotas have a second start wire. 5) dont know what the h3 connector is on the DEI units. i dont deal with them much.

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote: 1) e the actual disarm wire.  Alarm Disarm  BLUE/BLACK  (-)  18 PIN CONN IN DRIVERS KICK 2) run tach its more reliable 3) you dont need an ignition interface, you need a bypass module for the transponder override durin rs. 4) the additional (-) ign, acc, start outputs are used to add additional circuits if required. this vehicle has 2 ignitions. most toyotas have a second start wire. 5) dont know what the h3 connector is on the DEI units. i dont deal with them much.

1.)ok the 5902 has a factory alarm rearm is that needed also?

3.)thats what i meant bypass module, i read somewhere the 5902 didnt need them but i have it.

thanks

1) you can connect the rearm, but the 5902 locks after shutdown of remote start so it will rearm the factory alarm as well.3) a bypass module is required.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

5) I don't think there is a wire in the H3/10 harness. I believe it is a 10 pin harness but there is no lead/wire at 10.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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1. Do you have a factory alarm? It was optional that year. 2. Tach would work better, but DEI's Virtual Tach generally works well. You could leave the tach wire long, bundled up, not connected to anything, and try Virtual Tach for a few days. If it turns out to be reliable, leave it alone. Or, if needed, you can hook up tach later. 3. Depends if it has an immobilizer; not all did for that year. Is there a red flashing SECURITY light anywhere on the dash? 4. You don't need those for your installation, but they would be to trigger external relays, if your car had extra starter, ignition, or accessory wires. 5. I don't remember what that is. What does the install guide say?

Chris Luongo wrote: 1. Do you have a factory alarm? It was optional that year. 2. Tach would work better, but DEI's Virtual Tach generally works well. You could leave the tach wire long, bundled up, not connected to anything, and try Virtual Tach for a few days. If it turns out to be reliable, leave it alone. Or, if needed, you can hook up tach later. 3. Depends if it has an immobilizer; not all did for that year. Is there a red flashing SECURITY light anywhere on the dash? 4. You don't need those for your installation, but they would be to trigger external relays, if your car had extra starter, ignition, or accessory wires. 5. I don't remember what that is. What does the install guide say?

5.)Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT

H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87

H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT

H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)

H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)

H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT

H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT

H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX

RELAY

H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT

H3/10 NC (no connection)

NC

think i got that part down now that i look at it again

it does have that red flashing light im pretty sure its factory

ok last question priority locking how would i wire is 451m needed or not

thanks everyone for all your help

OK..... H3/10 No Connection: They're telling you that this pin serves no purpose, doesn't do anything, and shouldn't be connected to anything. Probably the alarm's wire harness is empty and doesn't even have any wire there....but even if it does, you'd just cut it short and tape it off and not use it. 451M: Not needed; your car has regular low-current door locks. The small blue and green wires from the alarm will be fine. Save the 451M for another alarm install another day, or even if you just need two relays to do any other kind of automotive project. Anyway, on to the security light..... The light indicates that you could have an immobilizer key, or a factory alarm system that sounds the horn when people break in, or both. For 2001 it really could go either way, so you should test. 1. Test if you have a factory alarm system: Follow this link and read the 7th post: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=76223&get=last 2. Test for immobilizer key. Is the head of the key thick or thin? Plastic or metal? If it's plastic and thick, it has a transponder inside. I've heard you can test by wrapping the head of the key in aluminum foil, and try starting the engine. If it fails to start, you can be sure there's a transponder. I've only tried this test once, so I don't have much experience. Another option would be to get a cheap copy made at the hardware store and see if it starts the engine or not.

it is a plastic headed key. and a security light on dash

the directed immobillizer is kinda confusing anyone dealt with this

the progressive unlocking is not working is it in the program or am i missing something?

lock is fine but unlock does all doors where as the factory does driver then 2nd press unlocks all

also door trigger works on all door but rear hatch is there a diff wire for hatch

The 5902 doesn't have a separate 2nd unlock wire. I think (no experience with it) that there are two low current neg unlock wires in the DKP, use the reg for the driver's door and any aux for the others. Hatch may be on a second circuit or mechanical only.