a new amp, kenwood kac-9104d

hey all. I'm not new to car audio. I know a lot about it, but there's something that's bugging me lately. A new amp came into my hands, a Kenwood KAC-9104D Mono class D amp. It's 1800 watts max, and I think it pushes 450 per sub. I'm running this to two 12s that are 350 rms a piece, and 1400 peak a piece. Currently they are being run on a 600 watt rms amp, so they're getting a good 275 a piece. My question is this. Today I installed my new amp and it was much louder than the 600rms one. But after a short time the subs cut out, but the amp was still on. I blew the fuse in the hood which is a 80 glass fuse. I have my wires run correctly, I just don't know why this thing cuts out. any help is appreciated, thanks

my first instinct is that you are over loading the amp. Which means that you are probably bridging a 2ch amp and its a 2 ohm load, which causes the amp to over heat and shutoff. You WILL damage the amp doing this. If you can be more specific about the model of the NEW amp and model of the 12" I can give you better help.

Sure. The new amp is a Kenwood Class D mono amp, model KAC-9104D. The Old amp is a Crunch USA Drive Series v-600 amp. The two subs are 12" JBL GT0-1214D's. After my first post I attempted to re-install the NEW amp. It turns on, but there is no feedback from the woofers.

If the fuse under the hood was blown how was your amp still on?  it should turn off the minute that fuse blows.  what happened when you replaced the fuse, did it work then cut out again?  it's a mono amp, but i think has two sets of terminals on it.  how are your subs wired to the amp and whats the impedance per sub?...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..

have you tested your subs?...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..

If this helps, this is the link to the new amp, http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC9104/Kenwood-KAC-9104D.html?tp=115&tab=features_and_specs And the subs http://www.jbl.com/EN-US/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=GTO1214D&accT=1&tsT=0&ovT=1

yes the subs still work with the other amp. i have the subs wired up in parallel, or so i'm guessing. From the sub to the box terminal, each wire goes to one terminal. 2 positives wires and 2 negative wires per sub, and I've spliced them together at the box cut out (++ = + and - - = -) and have two pair of wires from the amp to the box, one wire from the box on one of the negative terminals on the amp, and again another one of those, and the same thing for positive. it sounds like it's bridged but its not.

That amp is only 2ohm stable and those are dual 4ohm subs. You are running a 1ohm load wired like you have to the amp. This is how you have them wired correct? They need to be wired like this. This is a the correct way to run all 4 coils to the amp.

That amp will draw up to 120 amps of current, use at least 4g and really good ground.  Stock electrical system won't keep up, so the amp will shut down if under current/voltage occurs.  If new fuse doesn't turn amp back on, its cooked.

lspker wrote: That amp will draw up to 120 amps of current, use at least 4g and really good ground.  Stock electrical system won't keep up, so the amp will shut down if under current/voltage occurs.  If new fuse doesn't turn amp back on, its cooked.

The amp is only fused at 60A. 30a x2 to be exact. It would pull less then that in any normal application. The problem is too low an Independence to the amp.