a new amp, kenwood kac-9104d

heres a really bad illustration i made of how the old amp was, and how i installed the new amp. https://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk102/willkas/untitled.jpg

Exactly you have parallel/parallel for a 1ohm load. Your amp cannot handle that. Wire them series/parallel for a 4ohm load and your problem will be fixed. Notice the jumper wire from one coil to the other?

I have the previous version of this amp the kac-9103 and it's running a two ohm load to a 15" kicker L7 4ohm dvc and it cuts out after awhile too, wonder if it's just the amps themselvesMastermindz

mastermindz wrote: I have the previous version of this amp the kac-9103 and it's running a two ohm load to a 15" kicker L7 4ohm dvc and it cuts out after awhile too, wonder if it's just the amps themselves

This one was trying to be operated at 1ohm and it wont do it. If you answer the questions i left you in the thread you started, we can figure out why yours is cutting out. We can already rule out too low an impedance now.

In his defense, if you go to the overview on that crutchfield page and look down below where it says details, it does say it is 1 ohm stableAdvanced

Haha, your not lying. But that term applies say if the sub is a DVC-2. Then you parallel all 4 speaker terminals of ONE DVC-2, to all four amp terminals. The amp will see 2(TWO) - 2ohm coils of that DVC-2, giving it a UNBRIDGED 1ohm load=SAFE! So the actual terminal on the amp is parallel in itself. Even though you think its one channel. This info is in the owners manuals. Also the amp light comes on with the +12v remote wire. Lucky it was, I would of had probably a 150 amp fuse if I had that equipment. Your fuse saved the day...Maybe the first I have heard that has been lost there without a actual short circuit.This is what I do for FUN!

dasbogie wrote: In his defense, if you go to the overview on that crutchfield page and look down below where it says details, it does say it is 1 ohm stable

If you look in the actual user manual it states >1ohm. which means greater than not one. Notice how they only rate the power to 2ohm? What does that tell you?

I'm not arguing the fact that it is 2 ohm stable.  I'm just saying for someone who doesn't think to look below the surface and read the manual before they buy it or dig a little deeper on facts, it's easy to get caught up in the "well the website lists it as 1 ohm stable."  J., you have been doing this for so long you know when something sounds to good to be true it probably is. Advanced

so if i wire it as j.reed stated and according to that diagram, i should be fine? the subs will resume to work? the subs still work on the old amp, theyre not blown, and the new amp still turns on, just no feedback from the subs with the new amp.

If your not getting any playback after wiring it correctly at a safe ohm load. You may have more then that going on. I would break out a volt meter and ensure you are getting good voltage at the amp. Ground may not be good. Also with it at a one ohm load there is a possibility that the amp has been damaged from being at 1ohm, but lets try to eliminate what we know was wrong and what else could be wrong.