used car with alarm, 04 tundra, code alarm

sorry, so you're saying i should use a test light and take the same readings as above? I read a post somewhere ( here actually) that a test light would damage the electronics of my Toyota. Not sure how. How would i bypass the lock side relay? Can you give me specifics or point me in the right direction? thanks

It won't damage what you're working on. The questions you are asking are so basic it's difficult to answer! Take the wire from your alarm directly to vehicle wire. Look at the diagramme on page 2.

yeah, sorry man, i'm very rookie. i do appreciate ya'll bearing with me and walking me through all of this. looking at my current diagram, you're saying i should splice the ALARM LOCK wire directly into the LOCK wire, completely bypassing the relay, correct? Should i also take the LOCK DETECTION wire off of the relay and splice it back together? What about the wire coming off of that going into 87 of the unlock relay on the right side of the diagram? leave it or lose it? thanks again. i really do appreciate the help.

hey man. hope your travels went well. Today, i tried by passing the lock relay, and left the unlock relay in place, but no luck. Now remote unlock is not functioning. Should i remove both relays? I was thinking next i could try the Audiovox diagram (page 2 of thread) with the one relay and four diodes. I picked up some diodes at Radio Shack, but not sure if they are suitable. They're "1.5A, 1000-PIV silicon diodes". Will these work? thx

Yes to you last 2 questions, those diodes are over the top but fine, $1.99, bloody hell, I pay 1c each for 1N4004's in bulk

glad to hear those diodes will work. Damn Radio Shack; such a ripoff but right around the corner from my house. Already picked them up yesterday. ok, here's the plan today.... 1. Remove the second relay, cap off the ground wire and the 12v wire, and splice the alarm unlock wire directly into the unlock wire (alarm lock is already spliced to lock wire, and lock detection is spliced back together). 2. If no luck with #1, I will wire just as the Audiovox diagram (page 2 of this thread) shows with one relay and four diodes. While i have this apart, are there any readings that i can take with the multimeter that will help isolate if this is a problem with the alarm brain or wire coming from inside the vehicle? Today's the day. It's gonna work!

alright, still no luck. Tried option 1 and 2. Option 1 gave no remote lock or unluck. It's wired as option 2 now, and the remote unlock works, but still no remote lock. Not sure what to do next. Maybe the trigger in the alarm brain is bad? could it have gotten shorted out?

This has gone past ridiculous, buy a test light or even rig up a bulb and test your lock/unlock outputs from your alarm. Place one side of the test bulb to a constant 12V live and the other side to each in turn. Let's see if the unit is working first. Don't use a DMM, it's giving you too much info.