2008 mazda 3 and viper

OK, Why are you making this difficult? You are adding an aftermarket alarm with remote start right?

So why are you arming the factory alarm. only hook up lock and unlock(double pulse) . One wire system. you dont even need relays. Just put 2 diodes inline so only allows negative out of the lock and unlock wires for disarm.

When remote starting make sure keysense(+) is energized at same time bypass module is. This way the door do not have to unlock at all.

Attention installers 2010 Mazda 3's most model do not have factory power door locks. The run on cable system. Allow 1 hour per door for install. You can use wires from factory running into all doors except passenger front door.

1, i wanted to post that so that others could read it. we all urge people to search first, but if noone follows up, we see the same questions over and over. i found a wire that i can use as a keysense wire, but it's listed as such: blue/white (-)200ma second status/defroster output "this wire supplies a 200ma output as soon as the module begins the remote start process" i guess i can use this, but it's listed as (-), but also says it's a 200ma output, which i've come to understand is a positive output meant to drive a relay.

if you see anything greater than 200ma its often used to drive a relay if the circuit requires a greater amperage draw.

for most apps, the 250ma will suffice, but if its neg and you need positive, a relay is needed without a doubt.

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

well, is it a negative? the (-) part seems to suggest it's a negative output, but written below is "200ma output" the only clue i can find comes from this warning on some of the AUX outputs that says "never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or low current input! this transistorized output can only supply 200ma." so my guess is that this ground is only capable of handling 200ma of current because of how it's wired to the module. it's not a direct earth ground, the path of electrons travels through the remote start module, and asking it to supply the ground for a 12V circuit drawing more than 200ma will fry the module. on the plus side of things, that's why the horn honk output doesn't work, because the relay is wired wrong (both sides of the coil are ground). now i have a free relay to wire up the keysense wire (as i need a positive output) yay!