1987 mazda rx-7, python 991

since i cannot edit, i forgot to ask one more thing. when you mean feed an onboard relay which is connected to hot power window side, what do you mean by this?

ack, also forgot to ask. where do i buy the relay, and do you have a link to what I need to buy by chance?

The questions you asked, I don't know how to put this diplomatically but your knowledge base just isn't enough to do this job.

I am new to installing a car security alarm, and I must start somewhere. Any advice and input to helping me is much appreciated. If by second ignition, you mean the 12v supplied when in ignition 2 position, then I understand it. And for the relays, I found a 12 volt 30 amp relay, but not a 12 volt 5 amp relay. I am still unsure whether or not the 451m purple positive power wire connects to a constant or switched 12v. I appreciate your help thus far.

howie ll wrote: H1/10 WHITE/ blue turbo timer wire to relay 85, 30amp fused constant to 86 and 87, 30 to your ignition input/output wire. Programme that wire for approx 1 1/2 mins.

I hate to question your fine expertise but H1/10 is a remote start activation INPUT But I concur, 19rxseven87 you really need someone there to guide you. Trying to learn going this route is akin to trying to teach someone, who knows nothing about planes, to fly a boeing 747 by texting questions and answers.

I agree that I need someone to guide me, this is why I have a list of questions in hopes of people to answer my questions to guide me. There isn't much else I can do since my options where I live are limited to who I think can do a professional job with soldering, and shortening wires, using loom, etc. I absolutely hate it when "professionals" who get paid money to do this sort of job cuts corners to save time IE: just wrapping the wires and zip tying it instead of cutting it and shortening it. Or leaving wires exposed where I would prefer them to be loomed and hidden or blended in.

Catback, sorry about that, only excuse is that these units (and their Clifford and Viper clones) aren't available in Europe, I've never seen one! Use an aux lead for the turbo timer. RX7 you seem determined and smart enough to have a go and your soldering and looming up comments tell me you are prepared to have a go in a thorough way, so:- All the relays you are likely to come across will be 4 or 5 terminal "Bosch" type; fuses are external so you use all the same type of relay, just different fuse capacities. Read the relay section on this site for some good background and advice. All automotive relays have the same ISO terminal markings, some you will buy are 5 terminal, in your case ignore 87a. Constant 12v+ for 451, it's expected to work when you are remote from the car, think it through. The hot window refers to what we call a hot window or heated front or rear window, a (comparatively) thick wire provides the pos.power. Since your aux outputs put out a low current neg, you need to provide a relay. Having said that test as follows:- Turn on your ignition, turn on rear window defog. Turn off ign, then on again. If switch stays illuminated or active, all you need to do is turn it on the night before, it will activate automatically with the R/S. Provided you've activated all the ignition loom leads. One other thing, on a car of this age, I wouldn't trust some of the internal grounding points, take all constant 12v+ and grounds to the battery and ALL required fuses at the battery. Another reason for the hood switch!

Hi guys, Is the 451M relay module supposed to be wired like this to 2 of the DEI 524N 2-wire actuators? WHITE/ black soldered together with BROWN / black to chassis ground GREEN/ black to green wire of actuator blue/black to blue wire of actuator purple to constant 12volt Also, are diodes required to isolate current when the 2 of the actuators are wired in parallel? IE: green wire of actuator 1 -------\ ======== GREEN/ black wire of 451M green wire of actuator 2 -------/ Thanks in advance.

We've met before haven't we! Yes to the first question, no to the second, what difference would diodes make apart from the fact that you would need 7-10 amp diodes rather than the normal 1 amp diodes which you will need to run across the coils on the relays you will be using for your Python.

Hehe, Thanks again Howie. As for the t&t tech comment, he said I should connect all heavy gauge reds to the battery (+), does he mean the RED / white, re/black and red wire? Also, no the car does not have an Ignition II position, after the Ignition I the car will start if I push the key further, so do I still have to connect the pink/white wire? t&t tech also said to eliminate the pink/black input, is this true? For the hatch lid catch, I am unsure of where you are talking about, the hatch light uses a switched positive current to turn it on instead of a negative current, so where do I connect the trunk pin input? I have an extra hood pin from before, can I install this as a trunk pin input? I am getting closer to finishing this, thanks guys! Thanks for not losing faith in me :D,