1987 mazda rx-7, python 991

T&T is absolutely right, I edited a post but said the same thing giving reasons. The tail light should be NEG. switched, never known ANY Jap to use any other method, open the hatch, right in the centre lower section is where the lock mechanism sits, open the panel covering it and you will see 1 wire coming from it that's the one and it's NEG when the hatch is opened. Your going about this all wrong. Ign 2 isn't a position on the key, it's a second wire that tests live (or goes HOT) when the key is in the ignition position, it dumps i.e. goes cold on cranking. Used for accessories such as heater, AC control, defog which aren't part of the ignition/start system. Test the ignition loom.

QUOTE {As for the t&t tech comment, he said I should connect all heavy gauge reds to the battery (+), does he mean the RED / white, re/black and red wire? } QUOTE

Yes! Along with the red on the h1 harness!

QUOTE {Also, no the car does not have an Ignition II position, after the Ignition I the car will start if I push the key further, so do I still have to connect the pink/white wire?} QUOTE

This wire will go live on the ignition position along with the true ignition wire! It isn't a mandatory connection on that vintage but it may control things that you would like to have on with the R/S!

 QUOTE {t&t tech also said to eliminate the pink/black input, is this true?} QUOTE 

Yes!

QUOTE {For the hatch lid catch, I am unsure of where you are talking about, the hatch light uses a switched positive current to turn it on instead of a negative current, so where do I connect the trunk pin input? I have an extra hood pin from before, can I install this as a trunk pin input?} QUOTE

You could use the method you mentioned, but i'm betting the little dignity that i have left, that is negative switched! 

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

when you say the heavy gauge red wires connect to the battery, does it have to be the battery directly, or can it be to something like a 10 gauge constant 12 v?

Hey Howie, I am absolutely positively 100% testing my wires before I solder them in place to make 100% sure that I have the correct wires. So the heavy gauge red wires have to be soldered to the battery directly instead of a constant 12volt? I don't understand why the heavy gauge red have to be soldered to the battery INSTEAD of the constant 12volt, can you explain why? Thanks!

If you are testing them, why did you tell us there wasn't an ignition ll because "the key goes to ign 1 then start" we meant the ignition loom so test that and test your hatch wire it goes neg when you open the trunk, not pos as you stated. I've already posted why you should go to the battery including the ground lead on a car of this age. You don't solder to the battery wires, you use M6 ring terminals, also fuse the lives within 4" (10cms) of the battery.

What I was referring to as Ignition II is a position in the key after Ignition I. Also, as for the trunk wire, I was testing the trunk light, as I am not sure where the negatively switched wire is at.

And if you'd read the alarm instructions or any other post you would realise that IGN ll is a circuit going hot on ignition that goes dead on cranking if you have more than 4 wires to your ignition switch look and TEST. You will have 2 wires at the hatch light, one should be a constant 12v+, whether hatch is open or closed, it's the other you want.

Just follow howie! We're going in circles here! At the trunk light there are two wires put the a probe on each wire, when you get a positive 12volt reading connect the trunk trigger to the wire the negative (black) probe is on!commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

Howie, You are absolutely right, I missed some of the advice that you had given me. Most of the time I was reading it, it was about 2 am + and I had very little sleep the night prior. For the relay for the domelight, since the door trigger wire is negative, shouldn't the relay 87 wire be to a ground, not a constant 12v?