removed rattler 300 now car won’t start

skinnytitan wrote: Hi guys, I'm having the same situation with a rattler 300 in my 2001 4runner. Except, even though I replaced my battery, but I believe my rattler's kill switch has been activated and won't turn off because the car still doesn't even turn over. Also odd, is no other electronics work, no dome light, no headlights... but when I toggle my alarm on and off with the key fob, all lights flash... so I'm getting juice. I don't want to remove my rattler, I want to reset it and turn off the kill switch so I can start my car. I have the key fob and it works. I can arm and disarm the alarm fine. Yet even after disarming, it won't start. I can even put the alarm in valet mode (LED solid red), still no start. I have tried pressing the valet switch with all sorts of ignition key combinations, on, press, off, press 2ce, etc... To no avail. Any idea how to reset the kill switch and re-enable the rattler to still function as before? thanks

Check your main vehicle fuses. I don't think this is an alarm problem. Prior to changing the battery, did you happen to jump start it, and possibly reverse the positive and negative connections?Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Had the same problem with a Yaris about 2 years ago, the (major) Toyota dealership blaming the after market alarm. Constant live was going into the under dash fuse box/relay panel but not going from there to the ignition switch. I simply looped round it and got the car going in about 10 mins. Makes you wonder, it had been at the dealership for 4 days with no luck, the owner called me in above the dealer's protests. So poster check ALL your fuses on each fusebox, 2 I believe, check if there are any fuses mounted on the batt+ lead, also check for any ground cables where the bolts might be loose.

Thanks guys. I checked and one of the 140A fuses in the under-the-hood fuse box was blown. I put foil over that one to bridge it and the car now turns over. But it still doesn't start. It cranks very well, with a new battery and everything. I believe the alarm kill switch problem can be eliminated. But could it be other issues? a... Could the car alarm have cut off something else like the ignition switch? b... My spark plugs could be bad, It is cold out. I may try replacing them. c... How would I know if it's a frozen fuel pump? It's about 32 degrees in my Garage (mid west) d... Could there be a 2nd fuse that would keep the ignition from sparking ? thanks - t

First point change the fuse, that foil is a fire risk, and in the engine bay. You have at least 2 other fuse locations, have you checked them? Freezing point won't damage either your fuel pump or spark plugs. If you want our help get that meter out and start testing. Highly unlikely to be anything mechanical, YOU have to tell us if there's an ignition cut, I doubt it but I'm 4000 miles away. Also, could you check to see if the vehicle's OEM security light is going out when you turn the key?

Howie II, Good lookin out. The "Ignition" fuse under the dash is also blown! That's easy to fix. So, in summary... Both Fuses (under the hood, and under the dash) were blown. I fixed the one under the hood with foil as a temporary solution, just to get it to the dealer where he can remove the fuse box and replace it. The 2nd one is just plug and go. It hasn't started yet, but I'm confident it will. I wonder if my Rattler kill switch blew them out, or just regular jumping of the 1st battery as it was dying. Thanks forum. Fuses it is! -tjb

Regular jumping shouldn't have blown them. Reversing your jumper cables would have.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

And stop blaming the alarm! It would have fried to a crisp before blowing 140 amps or even 40 amps.

I pulled the fuse out leading to the Rattler box itself. No cut wires. Just look for the fuse and pull it. This Disables the alarm and allowed my car to start. Do you have access to the push button switch within the car? I had to play around with that in combination with the key ignition to get it to stop beeping. If your kill switch was engaged (doubtful though) you may have to re-splice the ignition wires. Rattler's manuals are online and they show which + and - wires were used to go in and out of the box for ignition. That's the very last thing i'd try though. Usually your key and the push button under the steering wheel are enough to stop the beeps. Finally, I was able to get a new remote for about $40 at http://www.directed.com/ You can program it to match your alarm. Good Luck

G'day guys i'm from the land down under Brisbane to be precise i have a rattler 300 in my R33 skyline and as i was trying to install a CB radio, i pushed the valet button cause i didn't know it was there as i bought the car from a car yard and the alarm was already fitted by the previous owner as i've had the car for 6 years now i can't get in touch with whoever installed it. I downloaded the manual from the internet and followed the instructions but i still have no ignition or acceseries i have only got headlights and interior light i can however acctivate /de acctivate the alarm with the remote but not with the valet button as per insructions any help would be appreciated thank you  Maddog068

1) The battery needs replacing. 2) See if there's a starter cut probably a relay with orange and yellow coil wires + two thick wires, join the thick wires together. See diagram. untitled.bmp