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battery being drained


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neil001 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: September 11, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: June 18, 2010 at 5:01 PM / IP Logged  

1999 Buick Century

H/U - Sony CDX-GT610U
Front - Energy ENC525CV 5.25" Component
Rear - Infinity Kappa 692.9i  6x9"
Speaker Amp - Alpine MRP-F300
Subwoofer Amp - Alpine MRP-M1000
Subwoofers - 2 Alpine Type-R SWR-1222D   (Sealed box)
Stinger 1.2F Capacitor, all Stinger wires and interconnects
---------------------

So, that's what is in my car.. it's got the stock alternator and oem battery. I've had the system in my car for about 8ish months now and haven't had any problems with it until recently. Every once in a while I'll go out to my car and it'll be dead. Thinking this wasn't a big deal in the first place I got in the habit of bringing along my booster pack just in case it should ever happen again. After that the car would start flawlessly (no major difference in listening habits) for another few weeks, then the car would go dead. After recharging the battery the car would start and run fine for another few weeks,then die again. This routine has kept up since. So I got the idea (from a mechanic friend) to unplug the cable running to battery positive to see if that had any affect. It did, my car hasn't died in the 2 weeks its been unplugged.  My question(s) is(are), does my alternator not put out enough amps to keep my battery charged? Is my cap too small? Should I upgrade the battery to a Optima (or comparable)? Should I look into a dual battery setup? Did I harm my cap in any way by unplugging it/will I need to "charge" the cap before reconnecting the system?

I'm a pretty big 'newb' when it comes to the car audio installation worldbattery being drained -- posted image...So any comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated... I know I like loud music and had the money to afford the equipment, now I want to get the best out of it that I can. I got this installed at a local Futureshop and who knows if what went in is really what I needed, or what would help out buddy's commission check.

icearrow6 
Copper - Posts: 497
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: June 18, 2010 at 5:58 PM / IP Logged  
your battery might not be retaining the charge like its supposed to. Take it to your local autoparts store to have it tested. At least here in Cali most autoparts store offer to test your ALTERNATOR and Battery Free!
jcs091570 
Copper - Posts: 155
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2009
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: June 19, 2010 at 2:51 AM / IP Logged  
As mentioned in the last post... sounds like your battery is not maintaining a charge at rest. I had this problem with a standard car battery. I switched to Red Top Optima and have not had any problems. My lights will still dim slightly at highest cranking of stereo system, but not enough to warrant a capacitor.. which honestly puts more strain on your electrical system. Make sure your battery terms are nice and clean and good connections all around.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: June 19, 2010 at 6:06 AM / IP Logged  
Sounds like battery - not that you should run the vehicle without a battery (albethat not a problem with newer vehicles other than stalling), but that shows that the alternator is fine.
Just replace it with the same. (AGM doesn't matter.)
And although a second cheaper battery is preferable to a cap, a cap does NOR put "extra strain" or load on an alternator. (If that argument were true, it would mean LESS alternator strain.)
A second or bigger battery does put extra LOAD on the alternator (though inefficiency), but that too REDUCES alternator strain - not that alternator "strain" is a big deal..... (Fuel usage yes, but alternators - no.)
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: June 19, 2010 at 8:27 AM / IP Logged  

Did i miss something? I would have thought battery right away! He said OEM battery in a 1999 Buick century!

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neil001 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: September 11, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: June 19, 2010 at 9:40 AM / IP Logged  

The battery is an OEM replacement, not literally the battery that came with the car in 1999 lol (in case that's what you meant t&t). I'd like to be able to listen to my stereo while the car is off too, but with my current setup if I turn off the car and have the stereo still on (electrics still work with the key off until I open the door) the battery will die in less than 5 minutes worth of low volume listening. Should I eliminate the cap and go for a H/O alternator and 2 batteries with an isolator? Or would an H/O alternator and 1 Optima do the trick? I've already spent close to, if not more than 2 grand on the setup and as it sits right now.. that's just 2 grand worth of metal and wires in my trunk serving no purpose other than to tease me everytime I go for a drive. I'm not overly concerned with cost (music is basically my only hobby) right now so any suggestions help. If I do go for an Optima, do I go yellow top? red top? one red one yellow? lol HELP!

DYohn 
Moderator - Posts: 10,741
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: June 19, 2010 at 10:32 AM / IP Logged  
Yes, get rid of the cap, upgrade your battery and get your charging system tested to be sure you are charging it properly.  And if you intend to listen with the engine off then consider adding a second battery.
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oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: June 19, 2010 at 8:43 PM / IP Logged  
Ditto.
A deep cycle for your secondary (AGM if internal or trunk etc) connected to main battery/alternator only whist charging, preferably with low-voltage cutout (for the amp etc).
neil001 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: September 11, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: June 20, 2010 at 7:00 PM / IP Logged  
So H/O (200amp-ish?) alternator with two optima reds? or two optima yellows? and eliminate the cap?  Would a Stinger SPG32 do the trick for an isolator? I'm at the point where I dont care what it costs.. I just want my music back ! battery being drained -- posted image.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: June 20, 2010 at 11:04 PM / IP Logged  
It depends what you problem is.
If you want maximum music time with engine off, the a BIG capacity deep cycle battery. AGM if located "internally".
If your alternator isn't sufficient to power your vehicle and audio and recharge the battery(s), then yes - after the big-3 - an bigger alternator.
The main battery could remain as is.
If you have a charge lamp, then chances are that a plain relay can be used as an isolator.
PS (next day) - did you have your battery checked, or have you determined drains/loads?
If money isn't an issue, you can always try reds or yellows or greys and ha-ha-smart isolators and see if that delays or fixes the problem (after all, a superior solution must cost more - that's logical isn't it?).
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