2000 eclipse gt and remote start

I'm assuming you're talking about the tach wire. Pick it up either behind the instrument panel or go to engine block,look for the injectors, two wires into each, there will be 1 wire colour common to all the injectors, use ANY of the uncommon colours BUT test with a DMM set to AC.

Try This: "GO TO TEST CONNECTOR INSIDE THE FUSEBOX UNDER THE HOOD,IT IS T-SHAPED PLUG.TACH IS THE TERMINAL ON THE TOP LEFT OF THE T.THE WIRE UNDER THE TERMINAL IS WHIT OR WHITE/ RED." Sorry for the caps I just copied and pasted.

i have it listed as Tach - WHITE/ Red @ top of engine.

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Ok, So i have everything in minus the 3 following cables. Tach wire: I will look Wednesday to see if I see a WHITE/ Red cable around that are. What kind of reading should I bee getting from that cable?? Also I was thinking about going behind the gauge cluster but I don't know what wire to tap into behind the cluster? Brake Switch: It says the GREEN/ Orange cable but that cable seems to be (-) when depress and (+) when pressed. So I try to see if it will start with it plugged in with it pressed and depressed and nothing. So I send both signal and it doesn't like it. If I unplug the cable that car start just fine with out it. Do you guys know of any other cable? I had to stop and clean up so I was not able to test the other 4 cables. Trunk signal: Supposedly the signal that I would tap into is in the trunk light which is (-). My alarm only come with one hood ping and one door switch (-). Should I just run the cable from the trunk to the door (-) trigger and isolate them both with diodes or should I just not worry about the diodes? Thanks Carlos2015 Hyundai Genesis Ultimate Black on Black

Tinted Windows, Fogs, Roof Spoiler, ARK Springs, Ruff R1 20's Staggered

I have to say that your questions are so basic that I'm tempted to say take it to a specialist but you've gone too far in the install or look up finding tach or even read the install manual, all the answers should be there, having said that: Tach; DMM set to 20VAC, black probe to ground, red probe to suspect wire. Should read approx 3VAC at idle and up to 6VAC on revving up. The tach will have 3 centre terminals. At idle one will read 12VDC, one ground and the third the above readings. Trace that back to the connection wire on the plug and join there. Brake switch wire colour is correct it's supposed to to give you a neg signal to enable the R/S, when it goes to pos it will disable the R/S. Trunk feed; join to the blue hood pin wire and use 1N4004 diodes, bands away from R/S. If you don't and the hood pin goes faulty it will turn on the trunk light and flatten your battery.

howie ll wrote: I have to say that your questions are so basic that I'm tempted to say take it to a specialist but you've gone too far in the install or look up finding tach or even read the install manual, all the answers should be there, having said that: Tach; DMM set to 20VAC, black probe to ground, red probe to suspect wire. Should read approx 3VAC at idle and up to 6VAC on revving up. The tach will have 3 centre terminals. At idle one will read 12VDC, one ground and the third the above readings. Trace that back to the connection wire on the plug and join there. Brake switch wire colour is correct it's supposed to to give you a neg signal to enable the R/S, when it goes to pos it will disable the R/S. Trunk feed; join to the blue hood pin wire and use 1N4004 diodes, bands away from R/S. If you don't and the hood pin goes faulty it will turn on the trunk light and flatten your battery.

listen to howie, thats all i got to say

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert