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viper 5701, 2003 honda civic


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viffer 
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Location: Canada
Posted: August 08, 2010 at 7:46 AM / IP Logged  
Hey guys,
I just installed a Viper 5701 into a 2003 Honda Civic and am having an issue I am hoping you can help me with...
I have most everything connected (except the power locks, that's next on the list)... When I connect the wiring harnesses to the brain I get nothing. No relay clicks, no LED flashes, nothing.
Any ideas of what I can check or test?
Thanks!
viffer 
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Joined: June 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: August 08, 2010 at 7:53 AM / IP Logged  
Hey guys,
I think I may be having an issue with my bypass module (Omega IB-H34). The unit is connected and does have power (as indicated by the LED when pressing the program switch). When I try to program the unit (depress program switch, turn ignition switch to on, wait for LED flash) the LED never flashes. It simply stays on, solid, for as long as you hold it. I get the same behavior when trying to reset it (disconnect connector, depress program switch, connect connector, wait for flash).
Any ideas before I send this back for RMA?
Thanks!
viffer 
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Joined: June 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: August 08, 2010 at 7:54 AM / IP Logged  
Sorry, I should have also mentioned this is installed in a 2003 Honda Civic.
Thanks!
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 08, 2010 at 11:34 AM / IP Logged  
Do you have the bypass module connected as per the Type A instructions in the guide with good, solid, soldered connections?  ( Did all the wire colors and pins match up? )  A bad ground could cause problems.  Also a bad/missing ignition connection could cause it not to program.  I usually get the ground, power and ignition from the same source as the remote start  rather than the cars' transponder connector. 
Soldering is fun!
viffer 
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Joined: June 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: August 08, 2010 at 12:09 PM / IP Logged  
Hi thanks for the reply...
I do have the bypass module connected as per Type A instructions and all the wire colors did match up without an issue. The only wire on the module that was in question was the single brown wire with a connector on the end. That wire is not connected, along with the blue, BLACK/ white and green.
I have the alarm ignition wire (Pink) tapped in to the BLACK / YELLOW Ignition wire at the steering column.
Which wire actually feeds power to the alarm?
Here are my heavy gauge connections:
H3/1 PINK – (+) Ignition 1 input/ output -> BLACK / YELLOW
***Connect this wire to the ignition wire in the vehicle. This wire not only supplies voltage for the ignition line in the vehicle, it is also the ignition feed for the security system.
H3/2 RED / WHITE – (+) -> NC
***30a fused ignition 2/flex relay, pin 87, input.
This wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 2/flex relay.
H3/3 ORANGE – Accessory output. -> BLACK/ Red (Accessory 1)
***Connect this wire to the accessory wire that powers the climate control system
H3/4 VIOLET – Starter output. -> BLACK/ White (Started side of severed wire).
***This wire hooks up to the starter side of the starter wire in the car. This wire is also pin 30 of the onboard starter kill relay.
H3/5 GREEN – Starter input. -> BLACK/ White (Ignition side of severed wire).
***After cutting the starter wire connect the GREEN wire to the end going to the ignition switch. This wire is pin 87a of the onboard starter kill relay.
H3/6 RED – 30 amp fused Ignition 1 relay input. -> White (12v constant)
***This wire is the polarity feed for the Ignition 1 relay.
H3/7 PINK/WHITE – Ignition 2 flex relay output. -> WHITE/ Red (Second Accessory)
***This wire is factory programmed as Ignition 2 and can be programmed as a 2nd accessory or 2nd starter.
H3/8 PINK/BLACK – 87a of Ignition 2/Flex relay. -> NC
***This wire is used when an ignition switch isolation on the vehicle is necessary. This is common on Toyota and Nissans which required the use of Tech Tip document #1077. (See menu # 3 Feature 8 for programming options)
H3/9 RED / BLACK – 30a fused accessory/starter relay input -> NC
This wire is the polarity feed to the accessory and starter relays.
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 08, 2010 at 1:16 PM / IP Logged  

The bypass brown will connect to the R/S's (-) Status Output  ( aka Ground When Running ).  That should not cause the reset or program problems if it's not currently attached..

On the H3 heavy gauge connecter, the Red, RED / Black & RED / White all get connected to a suitable constant +12 volt source.  I am not a Viper expert but there is another +12volt supply wire on another harness that needs to be connected, H1/2 Red.

Soldering is fun!
viffer 
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Joined: June 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: August 08, 2010 at 3:27 PM / IP Logged  
Out of curiosity, what is the R/S's?
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 08, 2010 at 3:37 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry, my abreviation for remote start.  The IB-H34 Brown wire would go the the Viper 5701 ( R/S )  5 pin Remote Start Aux Output harness, Blue wire at Pin5, (-) 200mA Status Output.
Soldering is fun!
viffer 
Member - Posts: 15
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Joined: June 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: August 08, 2010 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged  
Ok cool thanks for clarifying :)
Ok, you hit the nail on the head with the alternate (red) wire on H1. I missed it some how... The alarm now has power.
Now, as for the immobilizer bypass... Any ideas of what I could check? There really aren't alot of connections there... So there shouldn't be so much to screw up on that lol.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 08, 2010 at 5:54 PM / IP Logged  

I have a PKH34 in stock so I tried a reset on it with just the Red +12v and Black ground connected to the harness.  It does the same as yours...  LED stays red as long as the switch is held.  I have used many of them in the past and found them easy to program and very reliable.  Mostly on newer Hondas with the Install B for Type D cars.  Not sure if mine is bad also but I doubt as it was in a sealed package.  ( Don't think I ever tried a reset, they always programmed first try.)

Make sure the Brown wire isn't touching anything and double check the Purple data wire & connection.  If you can, put a DMM on the Orange ignition wire and verify that gets +12v when you try to program it.

Soldering is fun!
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