xpressalarm in 2000 corolla

Do you have any of the following? A light that comes on when you open the trunk? An icon on your gauges to tell you the trunk is open? If so the trunk trigger is on a microswitch on the lock behind the trim under it. Or if the second case, the floor loom going up to the instrument panel.

Please, you are expected to have SOME way of testing and finding out for yourself. With most current Toyotas, when the door is locked the dome light shuts down so domelight delay and supervision aren't a problem. ALL Toyotas except the original UK made Yaris for the European market have a trunk switch, always have.

Please see my replies below in caps.

howie ll wrote: Do you have any of the following? A light that comes on when you open the trunk? YES An icon on your gauges to tell you the trunk is open? NO If so the trunk trigger is on a microswitch on the lock behind the trim under it. Or if the second case, the floor loom going up to the instrument panel.

Here is the problem. I am a novice as I had claim earlier in my posting or suggest to it thereof. Too bad your reply came days after I posted my request for help to locate the trunk trigger wire. I did do some testing at 1) the wire harness that ran along the bottom side of the driver door side and 2) the wire harness in the trunk area. I was looking for a negative or ground output trigger wire whenever the trunk opened but i could not find one. the alarm input for the trunk is a negative....so since no one replied, i then proceeded to install a pin switch. all is done and nothing i can do about it now....main thing it works but now i know about some other exploration i can do (e.g. near the trunk latch) the next time.cj

Yes sorry but I do have to work sometimes.All door trigger on Toyotas used to be RED / white with silver dots. Make an assumption..if it has a trunk or hatch light that goes out, GOT to be a switch somewhere, the other place would have been at the lamp. Remove bulb and it's the wire that doesn't measure 12volts.

The RED / White Door Trigger Wire for this Corolla is up behind the Fuse Box, up to the left of the Brake, way up in the corner. You may have to lay on the Driver's Floor Area with a torch to have a look up in there. It's up in there and stands out. It's one of the highest wires to reach, but it's there! I've included a picture of this wire to help you out since I've been putting in an Alarm, Remote Starter & Keyless Entry into my Corolla which is the same year as yours. Only thing left for me is to find that Second Unlock (-) Wire, but that's another thread. In the meantime, everything else is pretty much working as I'd like, and I would like to help other's where I can as I know it can be very confusing, especially when the diagrams online are only vague and don't cover the needed details. Took me hours to find that Door Trigger wire, but eventually I found it and it worked. Here is the picture of where it is: (In this picture the RED / White Wire looks Red, but the white is thin and behind most of the red, however if you look closely, some of the white can be seen on the bottom near the black insulation). Hope this info helps. As for the Trunk. There is a unique Trigger wire for that, though one of the easiest ways to find that is in the Trunk itself. That is located at the Latch itself. If you need a photo of where that Trigger is, let me know and I will take a photo and upload it for you. If you want to go up front for the wires, you will need to test for continuity from the Trigger in the Trunk itself. Easiest way is to run a wire from the Trigger in the Trunk, and run a wire through to the front. I recently ran a wire that way for Remote Trunk Release. Again, if you need a photo of where to run the wires, let me know and I can also post those. I know my particular Corolla doesn't have an Electronic Trunk Release, rather is is released by a cable near the fuel release lever up near the driver's seat. So there is no wiring for that. For my Corolla, I recently installed an Solenoid and attached it to the Alarm which releases it remotely now.

As my bye-line says "Soldering is fun", however, in the case of that RED / White Door Trigger wire, hidden way up under the dash, I might consider using a Scotch-Lok connector myself.        Sorry, Howard.Soldering is fun!

Aaaargh..choking sounds and mutterings of blasphemy off stage. Kreg, pick it up in the "A" pillar or the dome light. Q.E.D Of course on the UK ones, called Auris and what fool thought of that name to succeed the world's biggest selling car model! Talk about the soccer expression don't change a winning team*, before diverting on our models it's the only plug facing the glove box (behind it on the left hand side) with three wires, 12v+, ground and door switched ground. *Not actually true any more, if you're in Europe you play so many games in a season you need 2 first teams. We're sending our kids team to Siberia (truth), we've already won that group and our first team has a big game 3 days later.

kreg357 wrote: As my bye-line says "Soldering is fun", however, in the case of that RED / White Door Trigger wire, hidden way up under the dash, I might consider using a Scotch-Lok connector myself.        Sorry, Howard.

Well, I was using the Scotchlocks at first, but found their connections are unreliable. They seemed to be easier at first, but soon after I found I was checking for continuity due to them not connecting well enough. Soldering I found is far more reliable and stronger. Though, this one particular wire for the Door Trigger is a pain to get to, and no fun with a Soldering Iron. I've now soldered all my wires except the wires for the doors. I'll be soldering them very soon. For the Trigger, not sure yet. I'll be trying to give that one wire a go.

Another soldering convert.       A small butane soldering pencil is great for those tight spots with thin gauge wires. 

BTW, great photo with excellent detail!

Soldering is fun!

How do you get those great photos to this page, please pm me with your e-mail and I'll contact you for advice. N.B. I wish the mods would merge these posts,I'm becoming schizophrenic. One last point, I honestly DON'T believe this unit is going to work. If you look at the diagram in the other thread, left hand side, lower middle, it mentions starter cut then shows a coil and mentions ignition! Bloody Chinglish. For safety reasons, DON'T cut the ignition.