verifying nissan keysense info.

Good morning all - I've been doing some research around, but would like to verify some information on a personal project I've decided to try out. (sorry for the incoming wall of text) My fiancee' has an 07 Nissan Sentra SL with intelligent key. Around 2 years ago we got hey a basic remote start system that worked off her stock alarm key. (3 unlock button pushes would get the car started) I've done a bit of 12 volt wiring with amplifiers and radio systems and have basic understanding of how electrical systems work so I thought I'd give a shot to replacing her remote start unit with the viper 5901 unit (for the 2 way remote.) Here is what I've done/found: I had unhooked the previous unit and for the most part and after verifying, the wires hooked up exactly as before (at least the wires that went/go to the ignition cylinder) I found the unlock/lock wire from the previous system fit into the current unit making that extremely easy, and I had also located the relay used to ground the WHITE/ blue wire in order to remote start from the stock system. However, car does not start. attempts to turnover are done but it never actually fires up. I figured, its gotta be looking for a key (I'm thinking the immobilizer system is a fuel cut?) so I started checking into the keysense. However, in this install there was no bypass unit previously installed and there was no leading wire from the keysense grey 6-pin that was connected. Reading up I am finding/found that: RED / blue should be "energized" there are 2 red blue wires there is "pin 1" and "pin 2" wires. The 2nd one seems to power up if the ignition is pushed in, and to be frank, I have not attempted what I found for pin 1 (all the times I tested it i found no voltage but now understand that with a physical key in it, it should go 12). I believe, I have attempted to power up "pin 1" with 12 volts and had the remote start give an attempt to find that it still didn't turnover to start.... so the question here would be this: IS "pin 1" the one that should be 12v energized and if so, what is the best recommended spot to get it from? Is this all I need to get the car started from here is this keysense wire? am I missing something else? I have tried multiple forum searches but alas, i must not be doing the right search terms, as I've found bits and pieces of information but no straight through "doing X,Y,Z will allow nissan with keysense to start). I would have brought my car in to my normal installer however, circuit city went out of business and my installer(s) have scattered around the country and out of the country. I don't want to give my business to bestbuy.

Ummm, have you tried inserting the key in the barrel and rremote starting, the intellikey doesn't necessarily imply factory security, it's more convenience, if there wasn't a bypass before that should hae been your first clue, anyways, what do u have the unit programmed for tachometer or voltage?

Thanks for the reply. I have not tried they key in slot then start method. I can try that later when I get home. I have the unit set for smart voltage. (Forget the term they used).   The remote start will work with intellikey in car.   I have a tach lead from the back of the gauges but I have not been successful in having the unit learn it. I think it has to do with the tach wire voltage being so low. If the car starts with key in ignition with remote start...what would that mean?

It would mean you had a bypass installed before and you need to re-connect it. P.S. don't use that virtual tach it's a waste, either voltage or tach, you can set the tach threshold to a lower setting, seeing that u say it remote starts with the intelikey in the car then i think u have a bypass issue.

I thought about that however, to my knowledge there were no wires that were left unconnected. The old unit came in 2 pieces, it looks like 1, the main part that handled power, and the other part of the unit which interfaced with door locks and what have you. When the original unit was installed at circuit city, they originally charged me for a bypass unit but was refunded because apparently it wasn't needed. They came to this deduction from seeing that the car would start with the intellikey only (without metal key inside of it).   the remote start unit was cheap, installed cheapand worked fine.   All of the original keys we have in our possession. None of them were used as part of the install.

Follow up: any input on correct keysense bypass method from original post?

Mark Mizenko wrote: '07 Sentra with IntelliKey?  I would use and ADS Idatalink module for the bypass.  It will simplify your installation.

getting back to ya a little late, was playing around with things. There are quite a few options from that ADS site, is there one in particular you would recommend for integrating into the viper 5901?

I always use their Multi modules.  But I think one of the cheaper TB modules would work fine for you.  

Look at the N5.5 firmware install guide.  Type 9 I think.

You do the typical RS install, the module takes car of the transponder thru the CAN connection at the OBD connector.   2 wires to the BCM to interrupt the security light on the dash (it will stay on after RS if you dont), 2 wires to the intellikey module to allow you to do a takeover when you get into the car to drive away.  And you'll wire a single relay at the IPDM under the hood (easy).

thanks for the tips. I'll check into it this information. Might consider finding someone locally to finish the job if it appears to be getting rough.