2006 gs300 awd push button start

I usually find my answers by searching, but didnt work this time. Need to hear from the experts: Want to get the viper smart start system installed in my 2006 GS 300 AWD and need to know the best and most cost effective way to go about achieving this. There are so many bypass modules available now but I just want the one where the car does not shut off if I open the door after remote starting the vehicle. Does it exist? If there are any installers located in LI area willing to do side work text me 516-697-0624. I have 2 cars, but possibly 3 vehicles.

The iDatalink TB doesn't require the vehicle to shut down but ...... " “Push to Start” vehicles have a maximum take over time of 45 seconds: for security reasons, during the remote starter runtime, the driver must press the unlock button of the remote starter fob to trigger a 45 seconds time window which will permit him/her to step into the vehicle and press the brake pedal to complete take over."Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I did one of these cars this summer. I used a Keyoverride-all by Fortin. They also allow a 45 second take-over window. There wasn't much info on this car since they only made it for a year with push to start then the GS350 came out after. If you goto ifar.ca they have detailed directions for this car. I'll give you what I remember. I got battery power from a thicker black wire at the drivers side fuse box. In the bypass hook up directions, they have the remote starter hooked up to an ignition wire with a diode. The tech sheet says ignition wire is on the passengers side. If you look carefully at the diagram, you will notice it is only looking for that wire as an input because they have you put that diode in. So I grabbed my meter and went looking for an "ignition" wire on the drivers side fuse box. I found a thicker blue(16-18 guage)wire that tested as ignition and I used it. Parking lights - blue -negative at the steering column Drivers door Pin - I don't remember the color but, The tech sheet was wrong. I unscrewed the drivers door pin and looked at the wire and found it in the drivers running board harness. I used a XK01 door lock module by bypasskit.com for the door locks. It controls the door locks without having to remove the door panel to get to the wires from the drivers door key cylinder. But the data wire it needed(Gray) was hard to get to in the kick panel, so I grabbed it in the black tube that goes between the door and car body. Tach wire was white at the obdII port, the wire all by itself away from the rest. To take off the panel under the steering column, the drivers side of the center console needs to come off. To get that off you need to lift the wood trim around the gear shifter first. There are 2 screws hidden under there. I took off the side panel of the center console and the panel below the steering wheel as one piece. During reassembly, I separated the 2 and put them back 1 at a time. Push button switch just pops out. Not sure if I reached up from behind and pushed it out or if I used a pick took and pulled it out from the front....either way it was easy, but the wires were short. Car Disarms on start remote start. I didn't grab any wires from the passenger side of the car. Everything was done at the drivers side. Thats about all I got off the top of my head. I hope this helps you or your installer. Frank

I don't know how relevant this is but regarding door triggers, if the dome light shuts down immediately the doors are locked, go to the dome light switched ground lead, you also for obvious reasons won't need dome supervision because unlocking the doors before opening any should bring on the dome light. The rest of the world outside North America uses amber direction indicators and white front red rear side marker lights. To enable the hazards grounding one of the wires at the rear of the hazard switch instead of grounding the black light wire will achieve this.

Here's my opinion for bypass modules on push-to-start Toyotas: Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-SL2 or any iDatalink module: They work well enough. A fair amount of relays and resistors and whatnot, especially when interfacing with the brake wire. However, these modules have the car's brake wire get interrupted and pass through a relay. Any mistake on the installer's part......one of his connections come loose from the brake circuit, the car won't start and it's on a tow truck and you end up with a very unhappy customer. Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL: It's a few dollars more than the Fortin SL2 module mentioned above, and well worth it. Installation involves only splicing into (but not interrupting) the car's brake wire. The module has two relays built in to control the car's brake wire during remote start, saving a good amount of labor as well as making the job look neater. In my opinion, the most important benefit is that if I make an error and someday my connection at the car's brake pedal fails, the only thing that happens is the remote starter stops working---they can still start the car manually until it can be fixed. Also, the savings on the extra relay, as well as reduced install time, more than makes up for the ALL's slightly higher cost over the SL2. Fortin EVO-ALL: I don't yet have any experience with this new module. It can be used in many more different types of car than the KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL, if you think there's any possibility you'd un-install your equipment and move it to another kind of car later. Also, I haven't looked at the install guide for the EVO-ALL and pushbutton Toyota, but I'll bet it offers some extra features like a tachometer output to connect to the remote starter, things like that. P.S. Too bad you're not a little closer to Boston, and that my remote-start season is already getting busy.....if it were summertime I would have been slower and maybe found a way to drive out to you. P.P.S. Audiovox is in Haupaugge Long Island. Call them at 1-800-225-6074, follow the steps in their menu to get to the tech support department (I think they call it Application Specialist) or something like that. The head of tech support is Nicky Gentilella Jr., and maybe he can recommend someone to you. I just met him at a product training last week, and he's a good guy.

Some very good comments as usual from Chris but he made a point that's very relevant to us pros....get to know your manufacturer's techs on a personal basis! It really helps.

Seems like Fortin is the way to go. But not all the installers in my area are familiar with making the remote start work with the push button start and interfacing everything properly.

Just make sure that the Fortin module is capable to do that vehicle the way you want it to. Phone into tech support and ask... it doesn't cost you anything to ask them and they are the best to ask about features, the way it works and problems ( if any ).Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

NYDesi80 wrote: Seems like Fortin is the way to go. But not all the installers in my area are familiar with making the remote start work with the push button start and interfacing everything properly.

That sadly is true. We've had push-to-start Toyotas since when, 2006 I think? And push-to-start Nissan since 2007, and there are still shops who aren't familiar with them and/or are afraid. Definitely don't forget to call my friend Nick at Audiovox. He answers the phone for tech support all day, and he's FROM Long Island----I'm sure he'll know of a place for you to go. And yeah, you're definitely on the right track. If you call or visit a shop and they start scratching their heads and they've never seen a push-to-start car before, go somwehere else. Like I said, your best bet I think will be to call Nick, but if you ever want to take a ride and visit Boston, let me know.

Chris Luongo wrote: Here's my opinion for bypass modules on push-to-start Toyotas: Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-SL2 or any iDatalink module: They work well enough. A fair amount of relays and resistors and whatnot, especially when interfacing with the brake wire. However, these modules have the car's brake wire get interrupted and pass through a relay. Any mistake on the installer's part......one of his connections come loose from the brake circuit, the car won't start and it's on a tow truck and you end up with a very unhappy customer. Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL: It's a few dollars more than the Fortin SL2 module mentioned above, and well worth it. Installation involves only splicing into (but not interrupting) the car's brake wire. The module has two relays built in to control the car's brake wire during remote start, saving a good amount of labor as well as making the job look neater. In my opinion, the most important benefit is that if I make an error and someday my connection at the car's brake pedal fails, the only thing that happens is the remote starter stops working---they can still start the car manually until it can be fixed. Also, the savings on the extra relay, as well as reduced install time, more than makes up for the ALL's slightly higher cost over the SL2. Fortin EVO-ALL: I don't yet have any experience with this new module. It can be used in many more different types of car than the KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL, if you think there's any possibility you'd un-install your equipment and move it to another kind of car later. Also, I haven't looked at the install guide for the EVO-ALL and pushbutton Toyota, but I'll bet it offers some extra features like a tachometer output to connect to the remote starter, things like that. P.S. Too bad you're not a little closer to Boston, and that my remote-start season is already getting busy.....if it were summertime I would have been slower and maybe found a way to drive out to you. P.P.S. Audiovox is in Haupaugge Long Island. Call them at 1-800-225-6074, follow the steps in their menu to get to the tech support department (I think they call it Application Specialist) or something like that. The head of tech support is Nicky Gentilella Jr., and maybe he can recommend someone to you. I just met him at a product training last week, and he's a good guy.

I take a look to the idatalink guide. I can't see where they cut the brake wire??? Can you point me in the right direction?

I would rather use idatalink if they don't cut the brake!